BuildTak success and settings

I replaced my PEI with BuildTak a few days ago, using the same removal and cleanup technique listed as if I was going to use new PEI. However, ABS sticks REALLY well to the stuff, and I found that using the following settings helped make parts removable, yet still stick very well during the print job.

In Cura, change to Expert mode. On the Start/End-GCode tab, I added the following two lines to the very end of the start.gcode section:

G1 Z0.03 ; move to 0.03 mm (e.g. 30 microns) above Z=0
G92 Z0 ; set the current position to Z=0

It’s been working like a dream - no curling up of corners, yet parts pop off easily without snapping pieces off of them.

I thought I’d share this to help anyone else who thought about using BuildTak.

-Kev

Isn’t what you are doing via G-code the same as slightly raising your Z Endstop? I’ve recently upgraded from kapton tape to buildtak on my Taz 4 and So long as i’ve properly set the Z-endstop I don’t have any trouble getting the parts off and i’ve yet to have even sharp corners lift.

When i set my Z height I use a business card vice a regular sheet of paper and that seems to allow for enough distance for good 1st layer adhesion and part removal. No other settings / modifications outside of my normal routine is required.

I do not feel that I have printed enough parts on the Buildtak sheets yet to attest to its durability but I will say that I absolutely love the fact that I no longer need to print brim on any ABS parts.

Note: It is important to mention my Taz 4 is fully enclosed inside of of a chamber. The chamber only retains heat from the print bed and is able to maintain 50+C during abs prints.