Cannot Level Bed- Left side too high

Hi I am having some trouble leveling my TAZ 6 Print Bed. The left side of the bed is waaaay to high compared to the right. I moved my extruder at Z +000.6 so that the left end can allow a piece of paper to move with a little resistance but the right side is wide open- I’ve tried to put some paper under the bed to make them higher but then the washers become tilted. Has anyone encountered this before and could offer me some advice? :blush:

First, if the difference is small (a few millimeters), then the auto-bed-leveling feature of the TAZ 6 will easily compensate for the difference.

Nevertheless, I prefer to get the bed as close to “level” as practical. The word “level” is in quotes, because it really doesn’t matter if the bed is level with respect to gravity – what matters is that the bed is parallel to the X-axis rails. And if you think about the problem in that fashion, then the solution is easy… just adjust the left or right screw until the X-axis is parallel! I usually do this by moving the head to the left edge of the bed, then lowering it until the nozzle touches a small plastic cube I’ve previously printed. Then I move the head to the right side of the bed (using the standard controls in the software), and turn the printer off. Make sure the printer is turned off, then slowly rotate the right lead-screw until the nozzle just touches the same cube moved to the right side of the bed. Don’t worry about perfection, just close is adequate. Now your X-axis is parallel to the bed, and the auto-level feature will easily compensate for what small differences might remain (that’s it’s job).

it’s not that easy … any adjusting i do no matter what mine still comes out apx 1 mm low on the right front i’ve been shimming and checking for four days i may have to send the y axis fixture in…i also have a solution for the tilted washer syndrome i’ll post a picture and a short video

here’s a video on how far off my y fixture which i’m sure is effecting my z axis…is you might want to check yours for starters… i have the company going to look into this this is not right!

Thanks for the reply!
May I ask which right lead screw should I rotate? The one on the bed?

i wouldn’t mess with the lead screw yet…if your having issues like me after all the shimming and lead screw you will probably find it’s still off i don’t believe it’s in the lead screw and once you play with it you might have a hard time getting it back to where it was unless you have gauge blocks…i believe the issue is in the rails possibly one is tilted or the bed may be set unlevel to the frame. did you watch my video? check your fixture like i did (see video) then contact support if you have the same issue as in the video!

hey mwester whats your thought…i’ve lowered the z rails to match the difference it’s off retested the z and is still off by the same amount… shimmed the low side up to the off amount re checked the z axis still off same amount from side to side… been doing that for the last four days!

Here’s a guide that might be helpful: – They level with respect to the top frame of the printer; the most helpful advice I found was to level with respect to the bed (since that’s what matters in the end). So the general idea is the same, but the specifics of where and how you measure are a bit different in my suggestion.

The lead screw to rotate is the vertical threaded rod on the far right-hand side of the printer – the one attached to the right-hand side motor. Just grasp the threaded rod, and gently rotate it by hand, and you’ll see the right-hand side of the X-axis carriage (the rods that the head is mounted to) move vertically. Adjust until the clearance to the bed on that side matches what you set on the left side. Then power it back up, and your X-axis rods are now parallel to the bed.

And once again, don’t worry about a millimeter or two difference – the auto-leveling feature will probe the corner washers to determine that difference, and then it’ll compensate for it each time you start a print.

(and remove any shims you’ve placed under the bed – you don’t want nor need those… and when you re-tighten the washers, use care – I squeeze the glass to the base with forefinger and thumb so that I can snug up the screw in each corner; you don’t want to use the screw to compress the rubber mount since it’s just aluminum, and you’ll risk stripping the threads. Also, it just has to be snug enough that the washer remains level when you stop squeezing – you shouldn’t be able to rotate the washer by hand. Any tighter, and you’ll risk stripping the threads.)

Thanks, I did watch the video and I think mine suffers from the same issue- I’ll probably contact support next and see what they can do about it.

I managed to print out a test rocktopus after removing all the bed screws and re-tighten them again- I think the autoleveling did compensate for a little bit and this print sits nicely in the middle so the tilt affected less. I tried a larger print later to find that the difference in height became significant.

I might do a few more testing tomorrow to see if this can be fixed, will keep you guys updated!

it might print in the middle okay…move it to the side that is off and see what happens let me know i’m going to try the one test …it’s a big square with an x going across i’ll see what happens…

i don’t think that print looks any good a all…

Wow I did not know those rods can be rotated- I think that might have fixed the issue for me. I did some adjustment and now both sides are perfectly level!

Thank you very much for helping! You guys are awesome :smiley:

Yes I think there are some issues with the gcode file as well as I just printed it off the bundled SD card without any modifying the profile.

I think I’ve fixed the leveling issue by rotating the rods by a little bit-will keep updating to see if the prints will improve.

you might want to recheck the same way you did your first paper check to see if the difference is still there …mine is even after turning the spindle! (and shimming) always comes back no matter what i do! and the printers frame is square! i checked…after all the spindle turning i took it back to the machine shop and we turned the rod back down and took precise measurements on a surface table with an indicator to get both sides the same height … it wasn’t the rod adjustment causing the issue nor did it fix anything…

ritmopat, it doesn’t matter.

The glass bed is a flat plane. The effective motion of the Y axis and the X axis move the head in a flat plane.

The firmware probes the corners of the bed with the print head, effectively measuring the distance from each corner of the plane in which the head moves to the respective corner of the plane formed by the glass bed. The result is that the printer now knows the orientation of the two planes with respect to each other.

Thus, when commanded to move from (x1, y1, z1) to point (x2, y2, z1) (note z1 remains constant in this example), the firmware performs the necessary math to transform the movement in the z direction to ensure that the head is moving parallel to the plane of the bed, not to the plane of the print head.

The point is that as long as the difference in the orientation of the two planes is not too extreme, and as long as both planes are actually both planes (and not warped), then one needs not worry about a few millimeters in terms of absolute level of either of the two planes.

(And in terms of gravity, I believe Lulzbot demonstated a TAZ or a mini printing on its side – a small tilt in the tabletop or counter is also irrelevant to the printer!)

i’ll believe it when i see it tomorrow! i don’t believe that you can have a 2mm difference left to right and the z rods are going to compensate that much as fast as the printer travels those rides would be turning back and forth so much you’d be posting on the z axis runout topic… again like i said my cnc mills don’t have a 2mm difference from left to right or even back to front it’s in the build not the rods or gravity gravity is not effecting anything much my rods are much longer on my mill no gravity issues it’s in the build!

mwester as a matter of fact my cnc mill has auto ‘z’ it checks on one sensor in the back of the mill not even on the milling table then starts milling doesn’t even have to check the corners! my other mill you just jog the tool bit down to the surface and hit go runs true and parallel or level whatever you want to call it but it works every time no playin around like this! they need to switch to the same kind of system … my mills are rolands mdx15 and mdx 40 with fourth axis all axis run true that’s the least i expected from this printer flat and parallel why can’t they send them out the same way someone needs to inform the engineers… they must not read the forums or they would have corrected what ever is causing this issue we shouldn’t have to have some software correct a major off alignment issue that’s what quality control is for
…the software is for minor adjustments…

here’s a temporary fix …longer screws and fine tuning…add shims under the rubber feet if that will help you …loosen the washer before adding then re-tune the support screws…cannot squeeze down too much …loosen and lower the screws, squeeze the edge of the glass down, slowly work everything for full support …notice the ‘gap’

M3-50 screws …ace hardware, need 8pcs