Endstop Triggering on Lulzbot MINI

I will cut to the chase. My y-min and z-min are constantly in a state of being triggered. I been checking them using the M119 command on my console window. I checked every connection and wire from them for continuity. Electrically, the endstops work on their own. I tested them on a multimeter with the button pressed and released. All the wires have continuity too. Everything works electrically as they should, but when I would try a print, the wipe control, bed level protocol, and the print stay in mid-air and never touch the bed. I assume this is from the z-min endstop being triggered. My hot bed will not move at all toward its minimum value and will stay at Y191, assuming this is because of the y-min endstop.
Before all of this, I had recently changed out the hot end because a coworker broke a nozzle in it and then shaved down all the grooves by trying to drill it out. The hot end is working fine now but as soon as I fixed that is when the endstop issue occured. I have searched all throughout the forum and I am slowly losing hope. Please help me fix this issue.

This typically means a blown mini-Rambo board. The usual cause is a heater wire shorting to the heater block and sending high amperage intended for the heater to the low-amperage input meant for the probe trigger. That often happens when someone uses a wire brush to clean the nozzle – and the brush penetrates the insulation on the heater wires. Could very well have happened when you were working on the nozzle – the insulation on the heater wires may have worn through and touched the heater block.

Here’s a search that will turn up a bunch of examples – so you can compare symptoms and see recommended fixes:

This just happens too often, AO should really rethink the hotend/heater design:

In my case it was not the insulation that was penetrated, but the fact that it is loose and moves up away from the heaterblock exposing bare heater leads in the vicinity of the hotend. Turning the hotend a couple of degrees is enough to make them touch if the heater is inserted deep enough into the heater cavity.

You can also statically blow it by touching it to clean it and cause a damaging spark from your fingers if the air is too dry.

What I am putting together here is that I need to replace the RAMBO Board to fix?

Yes. You can contact Lulzbot support to confirm the diagnosis, and get a replacement board ordered (about $100). They should be able to point you to a replacement procedure.

You will also want to check for any shorting of heater wires to the nozzle block BEFORE connecting the new board. It was probably a momentary short when you were working on the nozzle, but it is also possible the insulation has been broken and the wires are constantly shorted to the block. If that’s the case, then powering up with a new board could blow it too.

Replacing the RAMBo repaired the printer and everything is running again. Thank you all!

Good to hear you are back up & running!

Any issues / problems / tips you can share about the replacement process?