Flashing your Frimware

Hello All,
So I know the link below describes how to re-flash your firmware but I have no experience with Arduino or marlin. I do have a little programing experience from college. (All engineers have to take some). Does anyone know a more comprehensive guide on how to re-flash your firmware because I am lost.

I have an AO-101.



Basically, you’ll do the following:

Download the firmware: http://download.lulzbot.com/AO-101/software/current/firmware/Marlin.tar.gz
Extract (unzip) the package so you have a folder called “Marlin”.
Install the Arduino IDE: http://download.lulzbot.com/AO-100/software/2012-Q2/Windows/arduino-1.0.1-windows.zip
Open the Arduino IDE
FInd the tab “Configuration.h”
Find the line “#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {50.25,50.25,756,408} // default steps per unit for AO-101”
Change the 408 value within {} to your specific extruder steps per unit (found on your Test Acceptance Sheet)
Save the changes
Plug in the printer and power it on
In the Arduino menu, select Tools > Serial Port and select the port for your printer
In the Arduino men, select Tools > Board and select “Arduino Mega 2560 or …”
Select File > Upload to compile the sketch into firmware, then automatically upload to the board.

If you have any questions please feel free to contact the support team at Support@LulzBot.com.

Why are you reflashing the board?

Orias thanks for taking the time to lay that out. I will try it tonight.

I promised someone I would test print a couple prototypes, then my hotend died. So I bought a JHead and installed it until I can get my Budaschnozzle working again.

It is my understanding that I need to re-flash the board in order to update the thermistor table.

Yup! That’s correct! Make sure you make the right thermistor selection. The section to look for is:

//=============================Thermal Settings  ============================
//--NORMAL IS 4.7kohm PULLUP!-- 1kohm pullup can be used on hotend sensor, using correct resistor and table
//// Temperature sensor settings:
// -2 is thermocouple with MAX6675 (only for sensor 0)
// -1 is thermocouple with AD595
// 0 is not used
// 1 is 100k thermistor - best choice for EPCOS 100k (4.7k pullup)
// 2 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (4.7k pullup)
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (4.7k pullup)
// 4 is 10k thermistor !! do not use it for a hotend. It gives bad resolution at high temp. !!
// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
// 7 is 100k Honeywell thermistor 135-104LAG-J01 (4.7k pullup)
//    1k ohm pullup tables - This is not normal, you would have to have changed out your 4.7k for 1k 
//                          (but gives greater accuracy and more stable PID)
// 51 is 100k thermistor - EPCOS (1k pullup)
// 52 is 200k thermistor - ATC Semitec 204GT-2 (1k pullup)
// 55 is 100k thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan) (1k pullup)

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 7
#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 0
#define TEMP_SENSOR_2 0

and change the line:

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 7

to match whatever thermistor shipped with your j-head. Don’t forget to update your extruder steps per unit. Make sure that your hot end reads room temperature when you first turn on the printer after reflashing- it should read around 20-25C. When you test, make sure to do so in stages- Heat to 50C, then 100C, then 150C, etc. Better safe than molten!

Thanks Guys! Everything worked out great re-flashing the software. Back up and running!