that is good News indeed - it means as you suspect that most likely some Parameter in S3D is out of wack.
Because when I switched to S3D initially I had great prints. However what annoys me in the S3D gui is there’s no real Option to reset all to Default values. And the Default profiles don’t “Change” all the Settings back, so it’s likely I must’ve set something which now creates this overextrusion or whatever the Problem is.
To answer your question - I did not have to original gcode so I resliced it, but the Settings are def. the same
In the meantime I managed to fix the grinding noises from the Z axis, and was back to doing a test print with slighly optimized Settings in Simplify3d. Will post results when I got some.
What I did was Change These Settings as discussed here, since someone else had the same Problem in S3D:
OK, I think I have it nailed down. I changed a few things
Extruder Width was set to manual & .42mm I changed to Automatic. <— Just seemed odd
Infill was set to “Use random infill placement” turned that off.
Layers, set top layers to 12
And under “Other” (odd placement) I set Filament Diameter to 2.97mm (my filament diameter).
First print with these settings came out perfect!
Don’t know of it was a combination of these settings or just one. I suspect Filament Diameter was mostly to blame.
In my case I did 2.89 filement Diameter (was at 3.0). didnt Change top solid layers, 12 is too much for me.
To answer your question - I did not have to original gcode so I resliced it, but the Settings are def. the same
Oh good! I was worried. Because, while I definitely see the same sort of problem when I print your gcode, the globs aren’t in exactly the same pattern as your pictures show. But a re-sliced model with random layer starts explains that. I am convinced that if you printed this gcode, the pattern of globs would be identical. So here you go. Your S3D file on the left (I broke the arm, oops), my slic3r one on the right.
If you ever figure out what to tweak to fix it, I’d love to hear the solution. Since it only happens at the beginning of layers, I don’t really think it’s over-extrusion. Besides, when you set the filament diameter too high (Lulzbot filament is a very consistent 2.85mm), that should lead to _under_extrusion. You haven’t mentioned it, so I think you have still not calibrated your extruder (go here for a good youTube video on it). But if you’re using the stock setting, then you’ll only be off by a few percent.
So I think it more likely ooze, retraction/restart, or something to do with speeds and accels. I don’t know. But I feel like I learn something from this. So thanks much for that! Cheers!
Edit: I got a chance to go through the gcode. One big difference is that you only have one perimeter. Mine has three, and it prints from inner-most to outer. So if there were a big blob on mine when it started the perimeter, it would be where it wasn’t seen. You might try increasing perimeters. I’m going to try decreasing mine to 1.
Edit2: That’s it. The first perimeter printed has a messy blob where it starts. So the fix is to print more than one perimeter, and to print external perimeters last. It doesn’t fix my problem. But it should fix yours.
wow, that is awesome!
So I must have some major s3d config issue which I really have to get into now. Thanks for taking all the time , still annoyed because I have reset S3D to the default configs recently , and it looks like it still isn’t really on the defaults (since I used to get good results from it when I first started using it and must’ve messed up some setting)
Firstl,y i’ll just change the outside perimeter setting you mentioned, calibrate the head analog your videio and play around with a few others. Will let you know when I have updates!
edit: I did Change the Speed / accell Settings at some Point, maybe those do not reset to Default even when selecting the Default Profile again. will be back
With maxwellsd’s help we figured my issues must be Slicer related, since it’s not occuring when using slic3r instead of S3D for These prints.
Calibrated the bed completely once more
In S3D, I not only reset everything back to the Default TAZ4 Profile, but also checked all the Settings and noticed one annoying Thing: I think certain Settings are not actually reset when re-selecing the Default TAZ4 Profile (or any other Profile for that matter) Since there is no “reset S3D to Default Settings” function, I went trough it manually.
Noticed my Extrusion Multiplier is set to 90%, that’s bad (I guessed) so I set back to 100% which I believe is the Default.
Filament Diameter was set to 3.00 mm , set it to 2.89 mm
Extrusion width (apparently must be “times 1.2” of your nozzle size, e.g. 0.42mm in the case of a 0.35 nozzle) was set to “Auto”. I reset back to Default which put 0.40mm in there automatically. I will retry with 0.42mm next time to see if I get even more improvements.
Minimum retraction distance was set to 3mm. I put it down to 1.7mm because maybe it was not doing a retraction after each layer and thus created 1 glop per layer in the model… no idea
Speed Settings were also set differently before my reset to Default. I left the Default Settings which I will have to check and post later. print Speed i think around 70mm/s
Anyway I went ahead and did “lucy the cat” testprint with These Settings. (will post the full Settings once I have found a perfect Setup)
Result is already muuuch improved print! Still there’s blobs but very small ones now, and much less. (Sorry bad pics, crappy cam on this phone)
I will retry the Groot plant print to compare I guess, and maybe try Extrusion Diameter 0.42 mm as well!
- Noticed my Extrusion Multiplier is set to 90%, that’s bad (I guessed) so I set back to 100% which I believe is the Default. - Filament Diameter was set to 3.00 mm , set it to 2.89 mm
My roll of Lulzbot Brown ABS filament is a very consistent 2.87 mm, and we bought our machines around the same time.
Filament Diameter and Extrusion Multiplier are two parts of the same whole. It’s only the product of the two that matters (FD * EM). You had 3.00 mm x 0.90 = 2.70mm, which would have lead to slight overextruding (about 5%), and you changed to 2.89 mm x 1.00 = 2.89 mm, which is close enough to perfect. I’m assuming your Esteps / mm parameter is correctly set. But you’ll want to check that if you haven’t yet.
thanks in that case i’m not sure my Filament Diameter Setting was the culprit…
maybe it was a mixture of the few things I changed back to normal. I will measure the Filament in more Detail and try to reduce it even more (if you say 2.85 is the average it will probably be similar with my lulzbot Filament)
I will also make sure to check the esteps / mm Settings in that case.
will Report back when i have time with a larger print and see how it goes.
ok I couldn’t leave my fingers off this and just jumped into another larger 12-hour print.
I changed the Extrusion width from 0.4 to 0.42, left the rest of the Settings as is and started, using Lulzbot Glow in the Dark ABS
The layers I felt came out pretty good now without glops in the Corners.
However this larger print warped badly as you can see.
I just want to know if I a.) Need an enclosure or b.) the warping is because my bed is still not Level enough? Can such warping occur if layers don’t bind perfectly due to slight misalignment of the bed?
Thanks
edit: sorry maxwellsd i have not yet checked my esteps Setting as I was too eager to give it another go
An enclosure should solve a large part of the delamination problem. It did for me
Leveling of the bed is very important, but after a few layers the print glosses over it. If it sticks to the bed then you should be fine. From your picture it looks like the leveling is not an issue.
If you will notice, the longest diameters of the print are delaminated. So basically, the parts that the nozzle let cool off most, because it took more time to re-apply the next layer. The abs cools down very fast, if not inside of a well built chamber that holds the temperature.
Thanks for the tips tobias.
I guess i really need to start looking at building an enclosure .(
I retried the print with 5 degrees more heat, slightly lowered Z, increased extrusion width from 0.40 to 0.42 and made an impromptu cardboard enclosure (only sides enclosed, no top so the heat will still disperse)
Well that didn’t work at all, the result was slightly better but still lots of layer bonding problems.
It was a ~13 hour print each time, never attempted such a long print and i’m very happy with the now perfect corners and even the bridging and printing with no support is working much better now. (will post my simplify3d settings soon. they are close to the TAZ4 defaults anyway)
has anyone actually successfully done 12 - 18 hour ABS prints with perfect bonded layers with NO enclosure around the printer? I guess it’s just to cold outside here in winter, got around 0 to -10 outside temps and not very well seamed windows…
Yes, but the shape of the print really matters in that scenario. My printer is in my house so it stays pretty warm anyways. I find that a .5mm nozzle really helps for that too.
Printing larger parts with ABS is tricky. There is a ABS expands and contracts a good amount as it prints, so layers can pull away from one another over large layer times. Printing ABS a bit warmer with the V2 toolhead can help overcome some of these issues, as you can raise the temperatures closer to 250 or above just depending on layer height and print speed. Keeping your TAZ in a case as we do at the Lulzbot cluster is helpful in slowing that cooling a bit. We keep our enclosures right around 110C. Too much warmer and your electronics may start to have trouble staying cool and belts may soften up as well. Some users will mount their electronics outside the enclosure, which is handy.
