Here is the code updated for a Taz 5. Use at your own risk as I may have missed something when adjusting the .h files although everything seems to be working fine on my machine. Great in fact, best firmware yet imo.
I have incorporated the Prepare menu bug fix (that was unfortunately in this latest rcbugfix release) and the menu now works as it’s supposed to. (Altered the ultralcd.cpp file code per github)
IMPORTANT! I am using a custom bed, and a custom hot end. So the PID values and the thermistor numbers will have to be altered for a stock Taz 5 in the configuration.h file before compiling and uploading to your printer. And of course you’ll need to change esteps for your extruder, the K value (for LIN_Advance) and perhaps the default acceleration for your printer (I have it set to 900 for mine, I can go higher but this seems to produce the best prints for me on smaller parts. On bigger parts I can get away with 1100 or so). I also changed the PLA and ABS temperatures for my system, which you may want to change.
I am really happy with the print quality. Best firmware yet. However I have noticed if I stop a print midway from the LCD and then start another I get a thermal runaway error unless I shut the printer down. Marlin-RCBugFix.zip (1.44 MB)
I guess stopping the print clears the target temperatures, starting a new one is setting it again and start heating from a still half-hot hot end? Then the settings for the thermal runaway check are too agressive, try to relax them a bit. They relaxed them already in RCBugFix in the past and it’s now working with my stock TAZ 5 hotend but I also had this error in the past.
Yes that’s it exactly. I’ll need to search for those values and change them. But the print quality is fantastic. I am using K=110 and ABS on an E3Dv6 extruder. Perfect. The only blob I get now is the very first line of a print job after a priming brim, when it begins the actual part I get a blob. But not one more after that for the entire print job! Yay! It may be something wrong in S3D though, maybe not putting in a retract command after the brim and before printing the actual part and then adding an unretract before printing the part causing the over extrusion.
I don’t know how easy it is for you to read through the gcode. If you know the structure it’s not that hard to go through it and see if the error is in the gcode file.
In any case, if you have a file that constantly creates a blob as you described it, I would be happy to get it. If it’s a missing retract, I will see it. If it’s not, and it happen only with LIN_ADVANCE enabled, it would be a perfect example to track this possible bug!
I love firmware retract. You need to process your gcode file and swap out retract and unretract g1 moves with g10 and g11 respectively, unless your slicer supports firmware retract directly. Then just turn it on in the lcd panel. Works great.
Surprised by your K value… now I want to go back and recheck my results.
I currently use cura, lulzbot edition, but I guess I can start using slic3r as my main slicer, cura does not have an option for pos-processing, as fas as I know, does it?
Yeah, I was very very surprised by my value, given that previous conversations stated that ABS should be around ~100 normally. My e-steps are spot on.
I’m doing my first big print now, the printer does sound like is making a little bit more noise, and putting more effort, but I guess that is to be expected.
Stupid question: If I’m flashing through Cura’s firmware update function, which do I need? I don’t remember needing to care about this with other RAMPS, etc firmware flashes. Thanks!
Regarding advance features like LIN_ADVANCE, it’s not important if you use FW retract or not. Most slicers doesn’t offer a lot of retract options, so FW retract is more flexible, but inside the Firmware it’s leading to the same processes in the end.
Yeah, I was very very surprised by my value, given that previous conversations stated that ABS should be around ~100 normally. My e-steps are spot on.
I’m also surprised about K=60 should be the best. If we are all using more or less stock TAZ5 hotends, K should be the same at all printers within one material used.
But I would recheck your second statement about e-steps. Your pictures tells another story, where the scars from the travel moves are the strongest indicator. The excessive material is building up at the sides of the infill traces, during the travel move the nozzle is digging through that.
I recommend learning how to update with arduino direct from the code. This way you can alter and keep a record of the PIDs for your extruder(s) and bed, and also the K value for Lin_Advance, which can’t be changed any other way that I am aware of. You can also learn how to add things like bed leveling and other features that can be unlocked.
Yeah, Cura needs a .hex file. I’ve config’d and flashed from Arduino IDE on a Chinese kit printer, but never the TAZ. I’m comfortable doing it, but it does take a lot longer (I’m not very experienced so there’s lots of looking up and double checking each and every step).
I may have something going on with my printer, don’t know…
I’m using a Micro Swiss hardened nozzle, but I don’t think that this would change too much my thermal properties. I do think is time to do a maintenance on my printer… check set screws, tension etc… I’ll do that tomorrow.
I tested my e-steps 5 times today, extruding 10 cm slowwwwwly (G1 E100 F100)… maybe my nozzle is to close from the printbed. no idea…
After I give the general maintenance tomorrow, I’ll test it again. I tuned down the acceleration an the noise improved using LIN_ADVANCE, but it clearly forces much more the extruder.
I guess this is made from ABS and acetone vapor polished? Looks realy good, never thought this was a 0.2mm print. Some day I should give ABS a try, just because of the acetone option…
The original model poster was made in white ABS and acetone polished. Mine is actually in red PLA. But I could print it in ABS also. Trick is with something this tall you definitely need an enclosure so it doesn’t crack due to shrinkage. Even with an enclosure it’s tough to not get ABS to crack as you go to 150+mm tall.
Yes it’s a lot of work. ABS is easier with the acetone, but in this model’s case you would lose a lot of the fine detail (rough scaly skin of the creature) and make it baby smooth like his white print. Defeats the purpose of this high poly count model in a lot of ways.
You can’t see the layer lines in my red PLA print because of all the fine surface detail in the model. So it really doesn’t require any treatment to paint outside of some primer. It’s that good in person. Anyway I’m not going to paint it I just wanted to see if I could print that challenging model and see what RCBUGFIX would produce quality wise. Very pleased.
