Lets see, Get a good part removal tool, and always remove parts gently if possible. I use a cheese slicer for this actually, and it works great. For printing ABS, use 240c for the nozzle starting temperature and 92c for the bed temperature. Check and level everything before you start printing. Also make extra sure to measure the filament you are using and imput that into your Sliceing software to ensure you aren’t over or underextruding.
If you switch from ABS to PLA, note that ABS melts at a higher temperature so if there is any left in the nozzle when you switch, you may have to purge some plastic at a higher temperature rather to clear it out.
Buy good filament. Cheap filament and working filament aren’t always the same thing. the cheap stuff often has filler in it, like chalk or melamine powder that messes with your printer.
A jam is almost never due to an actual blockage. If your filament is stripping on the hobbed bolt you are either too close to the bed, or the idler arm springs aren’t tight enough. You want to start with around 8mm between the two washers on either side of the spring to start with. More for ABS possibly.
Get a good set of digital calipers and use them constantly.
If you ever have a layer that just shifts in one direction randomly for no apperent reason, you either have a loose belt or a loose pulley setscrew.
If you are going to level the bed, always do so when the printer is at full printing temperature and has been there for a few minutes. The hot end expands when heated a bit. To level the bed, I use a thin metal depth gauge (one may have came with your Taz) and I use that to set an equil space between the hot end and the bed at all for corners. It’s more important to get the bed level first, and then set the layer height. A stock taz will have an apperent minor dip in the middle if you are using a dial indicator. You can ignore that for now. The glass actually is flat though.
Hmm, lets see what else. Oh, never move the bed or the heat end by yourself without first disconnecting the motor cables. Causing the motor to turn without them disconnected turns them into a generator, and basically feeds power back into the controller which can damage the small fuses inside. They look like tiny grains of rice, and are not fun to replace.
Check out the printer modification thread for things you can do to your printer later if you like!
Hope that helps, welcome to the forum!