Beware with GecktoTek: I’m a GeckoTek backer since 20th of July, 2014 and they did not deliver the product yet I have backed more than a year ago.
Hi fns720, This is Brad From GeckoTek. If you are only waiting on a Build Plate then I can send it to you right away. Ill send you a PM.
I am still working on the last Magnetic Bases and hope to have them all sent by the end of the year.
Brad, while we have your attention…
I’ve perused your website and public information and can’t determine if GeckoTek has a textured surface that is imparted to the print or not. Perhaps you can comment and/or show some photos please.
I am also unclear how the magnetic plate works with the surface. Again, there are very few photos around and not much info on the site. How thick is the magnetic base? How thick is the GeckoTek?
I get asked for build surface recommendations and my experiences all the time (especially at the SeeMeCNC forum) and GeckoTek is really the only major option that I have not personally used yet.
cheers,
Michael
We’ve also ordered the the PEI from McMaster and the tapecase 3M 468MP adhesive from Amazon in the past.
That said, Lulzbot (and us) now sell the TAZ https://www.lulzbot.com/store/parts/lulzbot-taz-pei-sheet
and Mini https://www.lulzbot.com/store/parts/lulzbot-mini-pei-sheet
PEI sheets.
Why pay these prices?
The adhesive is applied with a laminator, which eliminates bubbles between the adhesive and PEI.
Lulzbot also heats the adhesive/ PEI, then seals it in a bag with desiccant. It turns out that, like many filaments, the adhesive is hydroscopic. If the adhesive absorbs too much moisture, you’ll still end up with bubbles in your otherwise bubble free sheet once the adhesive heats and releases the moisture.
Not a bad price considering the labor to do it yourself. Any chance of making a 12" diameter disk? Lots of people with Rostock Maxes over on the SeeMeCNC forum would love that.
Would it not work to buy the 12"x12" Lulzbot sheet, stick it to the Rostock bed, then trim it?
Yes, but that would not be a turnkey solution that the noobies need. Cutting PEI is a bit of a challenge without the right tools.
Yes, but that would not be a turnkey solution that the noobies need. Cutting PEI is a bit of a challenge without the right tools.
We have a laser cutter at our disposal that could cut a perfect 12" circle in PEI.
I didn’t say buildtak, I said pei… They are different as others pointed out. Also I used 1/8 inch thick PEI 3m tapped to the build plate, that means no bubbles or ripping is possible. This did is strong as hill.I would strongly recommend buying a 12x24 sheet of PEI 1/8" from amazon.com and cut it in half so you have a backup, although I never use it cause this stuff lasts forever. Ive had no problems with the heat bed staying up to temp also. If anyone has any questions please email me at suntornpogasic@gmail.com as I dont check this forum alot! 
I just used a utility knife and a square. Score it along the line, front and back, then snap in two.
BTW, ive had gecktek plates for a while now… tested multiple iterations.
LOVE them.
magnetic plate is about 1/3 inch, magnets embedded. plates are 1mm or so thick.
great system.
EDIT : sorry, was in the middle of a game 
… anyway… I have tested a few different iterations of the plate. THe latest one is by far the best… However the PLA one that i received early on was fantastic as well. I have asked brad to find a way to work with the lulzbot community to get a taz 5 build plate going, but its going to prove pretty difficult i imagine. Given the base plate from my old FFCP was easier to replace with a magnetic base than that of the taz 5.
So we will see . Either way, i can verify the plates are real, and they work very well.
Do you have any photos of the bottom surface of a print to show what sort of texture the plates imparts?
First layer adherence is only part 1 of the print surface function. Aesthetic impact on the finished print is a secondary function for some of us. PEI leaves a beautiful in textured surface that’s ideal for parts that the bottom surface is visible.
Cheers
Michael
MIchael… so ive tested 4 different plates now… The latest is perfectly smooth, no surface texture at all which I know you will appreciate.
2 of the other ones i tested had some graininess to them, which I provided that feedback to Brad at geckotek. The High Temp plate is the latest ive tested and it was perfectly smooth.
I think the biggest problem is making sure you NEVER dig the nozzle in to the plate, or use tools to remove your parts. The surface is very scratchable.
If you just slide the plate off, let it cool a sec, the part pops right off with no tools.
I just bought some sheets on amazon for my Taz 3 since I ripped the PET sheet on it.
Someone said in this thread that you have to glue the PEI sheet down, what glue do I need to do this? I just assumed the PEI sheet would have a sticky back?
Thanks,
You need a sheet of 3m mp465 (I think) adhesive, 12x by 12x. The exact model number is towards the beginning of this thread so far. If you ordered a pie sheet from lulzbot it may come with adhesive, but I don’t know for sure.
Just curious as to how long the 3M adhesive is supposed to last? Mine is starting to dry it after some heavy printing…I’d like to do away with having to use adhesive…anyone have success using a thick sheet of PEI and just clamping it in the corner clamps?
My 3M adhesive laster over a year and then I needed to change the bed (I damaged it) and it was a very big job removing the adhesive. I believe if I never needed to change the PEI that the adhesive would last 5 years or more.