Removeable/easy to clean bed ?

I am used to an old printer which has a removeable bed. It has a bare borsosilicate glass on top of a heated bed attached with clips. I use hairsparay and the parts attach very well to the glass. Having several identical glasses I can print immediately another part. Also, having a removeable glass it is easier to clean the bed and separate the part from the bed.

To be honest, in the TAZ4 I have not found an easy way to separate the printed parts from the bed, even with the bed at room temperature. Having to wait for temperature to cool down is a pain.

Has anyone tried to place a thin borosilicate glass on top of the TAZ4 thick glass ? Does the heat transfer work ?
Is there any other way to have removeable bed on TAZ4?


I have found that rotating the 4 plastic bed “fingers” and unplugging the bed heater to be easy enough when removing the bed, but I don’t do it that often. I think there a couple people on this forum who use and like the PrintinZ flexible bed with their TAZ. Maybe that’s what you’re after?

Printinz is only suitable for PLA. It seems it does not support high temperatures and bends when printing large ABS parts.
In my modest Prusa i3 printer i can replace the glass in a matter of seconds and put the removed glass with the printed part under cold water. Wait 5 minutes and the part popups (hairspray dilutes in water) . The glass is almost clean and ready for a new print. This is a huge advantage over the “let it cool down and scratch” approach.

I see. I don’t have a lot of experience, but one thing I’ve done is to use a wet sponge to apply some water around the base of the finished print. When I was using a glue stick (also water soluble) this worked decently, although soaking in water would surely be more efficient.

The other day I purchased a sheet of 1/16" thick PEI from McMaster-Carr that I have yet to try clipping to my bed. If that works as planned it could be a solution for your problem, too.

A bit like dustMason, I just rotate the little fingers, disconnect the two electrical connectors, and pop the whole bed in the fridge. The parts release in about 5 minutes.

The bed being directly attached to the heater is annoying for exactly the reasons you said. I haven’t tried using a thin sheet of glass on top of the thicker Taz glass but a compromise is using a sheet of PEI (Polyetherimide). Move your nozzle a little higher than you normally would from the bed because it sticks extremely well. Once your nozzle height is set well, parts stick very well and pop off easily without waiting for the temp to cool down. You dont need to use hair spray, abs acetone slurry, glue stick, kapton or anything else for good adhesion.

Which PEI thickness are you using?

I’m actually using buildtak which is basically ultem pei with adhesive pre applied and a fancy logo. I’m not sure what the thickness is but if you are interested, here is a thread which has more details on pei:

BuildTak has been a love hate relationship for me so far. Works great for pla and hips. Abs tends to be very finicky about head distance, getting stuff stuck to hard sometimes, and not well others. And Soft PLA just plain glues itself down no matter what the head height is.

I feel I may need more than one surface to just optimize foe the filament.

FWIW, we will have PEI in the shop for TAZ real-soon-now too. We have it for Mini now. It is majick surface. Works great.

Also, if you accidentally spill pie on your PEI, it cleans right up!

I have ordered Buildtak. 18 Euros from my local store.
However i am afraid to install it after reading the comments on different forums. Apparently it works well with PLA but not so well with ABS. Some people complain about Buildtak being very difficult to calibrate and sometimes the parts become impossible to remove. I have heard also about bubbles coming out after heating bed.

Should I expect the same problems with other PEI sheets?.

From my experience, buildtak works very well with both pla and abs (and petg for what its worth). It is a little tricky to calibrate the correct nozzle height as you said. If you get it wrong, parts will either stick extremely well or not very well at all - there is a happy medium. Its hard to find but worth it imo. Bubbles will form if your part sticks to the bed too well, requiring you to pry it off, resulting in some lifting.

I have been using BuildTak for over a month. Pla, do not heat the bed, and remove the part asap. Abs, do heat the bed and also remove the part soon after printing. Soft PLA, avoid, it just glues to it and pretty much ruins it.

Generally requires more head room than you would think.

I got bubbles after the first heat up, 0.1mm tall, a few, but over a month I ended up with over 30 bubbles. They just slowly appeared. They just made tuning the head height harder and all were very shallow.

I ripped mine trying to get the soft Pla off. They sent a replacement due to the bubbles, I plan to install it this weekend after doing some soft pla without it.

I think I am going to need several different beds prepped with different materials.