I was prying up a print on my TAZ 5 with the enclosed spatula or whatever it is and had to put a little force on it. I am noticing a little uneven raised spot on the bed now. Is my bed screwed up? I just bought this a few weeks ago so I am wondering if this happens when removing prints and what to do about it?
Are we supposed to use glue etc since this is a heated bed? I thought now that it is heated this is not necessary.
Also, what is the proper time to remove a print? Is it different for PLA, ABS and HIPS?
Thanks again,
Chris
Chris,
What type of filament were you using? Did you let the bed cool down before removing the part?
The bed on the TAZ is glass with a PEI sheet laminated on top of it. Over time, that PEI sheet will de-laminate. Prying parts off of the sheet will accelerate that de-lamination (as will a few other things like letting the bed cool down all the way to ambient air temperature).
You might be able to press the PEI sheet back down, but that area will continue to have issues with that spot until you replace the PEI sheet at some point.
I think OP used the clam knife, got the tip under the object, then pulled up on the handle. The printed object acted as a fulcrum causing the tip of the knife to dig into the PEI. In which case, you probably have a gouge… but without pictures we can’t tell. 
Post a picture of the bed. Then try printing a flat surface over the portion of the bed which you think is gouged. You may be able to see the guoge… or at least determine if its going to affect future prints.
To fix, raise the nozzle through the Z-endstop. Give it a quarter turn. Or you could try putting in .2mm - .5mm of Z-offset in the slicer software.
Well it seems like a minor bump in the bed. Ill take a pic and post it.
Also…
Are we supposed to use glue or acetone/abs mix since this is a heated bed? I thought now that it is heated this is not necessary.
Also, what is the proper time to remove a print? When bed temp at 0? Is it different for PLA, ABS and HIPS?
Thanks again,
Chris
You shouldn’t need any additional treatment to the surface when printing PLA or ABS… Ninjaflex may require a gluestick or something, but don’t quote me on that. Lulzbot has guidance on filament specs, but I can’t seem to locate them at the moment. The following has some information about the different materials.
As a rule of thumb extrusion temps are marked on the filament spool, or on the manufacturers website.
Bed temps vary from material to material. Always let the bed cool lower than 60C before removing parts… this seems critical to the adhesive bonding the PEI to glass.
I only print in ABS, so can only provide experiences with the material. I like a bed temp of 110C for the first few layers, then something like 90-100 for the rest of the object if your slicing software supports mid part temp changes. Leaving the temp at 110C, can scorch the part if its a light colored filament. Remove parts at ~50C. If you find yourself prying on the part too much, try a few drops of IPA around the object… LB sites that alcohol can prematurely dry out the PEI, but others have countered that… so do it sparingly. Once you get that part off the bed, give the Z-endstop a quarter turn to raise the nozzle higher.
Hope that helps.
EDIT: Found that page with recommend temps:
https://www.lulzbot.com/taz-cura-profiles
I suggest reading through this thread: https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=2050&start=40. Towards the end there is a good write up about final bed temperatures to lengthen the life of the PEI.