TAZ 6, Carbon Fiber Successful, with Olsson Ruby!

Hey guys, I have a successful print setup with the TAZ 6 for carbon Fiber with the Olson Ruby with the V3 Duel extruder.

Filament —https://essentium3d.com/collections/filament/products/nyloncarbonfiber
Nozzle ------http://olssonruby.com/compatibility/

For Instructions,
Create a new printer in respect to your setup.
Go to manage printer
Machine Settings
Edit your Start Code

place a " ; " (semicolon) in front of your G29 code


M109 R{material_probe_temperature_0} ; heat to probe temp
M204 S100 ; set accel for probing
;G29 ; probe sequence (for auto-leveling)
M204 S500 ; set accel back to normal
M104 S{material_print_temperature_0} T0 ; set extruder temp

This will skip the auto leveling command, save this.
Because the Olsson Ruby is non conductive, it will not work with the auto leveling. TAZ 6 requires the a conductive tip for auto leveling. When the tip touches the stainless steel plate, the circuit is completed registering to the computer that it has touched off at the height.

NOTE: Make sure that you have made a copy and have identified the printer configuration for this setup.

After the G Code has been modified, Manual offset of the tool to the table must be performed.

There are 2 ways to do this. (on the machine itself) & (though the Console)

Hit the main button, turn the nob to go down to configuration, scroll to advanced settings, go to Z - offset. Adjust the offset accordingly. Your machine will be different than others.
Mine is setup for -0.7 mm, and the initial print layer turns out well.

Through the Lulzbot Cura 3D software,
go to Machine Monitor, Connect to your Printer, Go to Console,

Command to View and edit in console is…

M851 wait about 3 seconds> your output will show your current offset
M851Z-0.7mm Will adjust your offset to be -0.7 mm down from the Z touch off.

Start a print and it should work as normal but skip the auto leveling.
I would only recommend doing this only when your bed is roughly very close to being perfectly level.

Hello Dragule,

I stumbled across your post last week while googling for a solution to auto-level my TAZ6 with a ruby nozzle. I followed your instruction and modified the gcode to skip auto-levelling, however, I was not satisfied with first layer height and consistency on a trial print. I print very tall and slender structures (>220mm tall) that only just fit diagonally across the build plate and have a 5x250mm contact strip with the bed. I use a 15mm wide brim to maximise adhesion. If this first layer is not perfect then I risk losing a 48hr build.

I sourced a 0.4mm Everlast Ruby nozzle for 1.75mm filament and bored it out to suit the 2.85mm Polymaker PA6-CF (2kg spool) that sits in a PolyBox to minimise humidity. I was unable to source a 2.85mm nozzle within the timeframe needed.

I modified the gcode to raise the nozzle 50mm and wait for 90 seconds after wiping to allow the application of an electrically conductive paint to the ruby tip and onto the metallic nozzle body. I used a Circuit Writer pen (https://www.jaycar.com.au/silver-conductive-pen/p/NS3033) – I first deposited a volume of the silver containing polymer liquid onto a blade and then dabbed it onto the nozzle ruby tip and then up the side. The wipe is done at 200C and this cures the paint very quickly and thin. The nozzle then warms to the printing temperature of 290C and then auto-levels itself normally and the print proceeds.

I think you could probably get away without altering the gcode if you are quick and precise with the application of the conductive paint. Don’t be tempted to apply the paint directly from the pen – the tip melts on contact with the nozzle and you will then need to cut the pen open to access the paint. It would probably be best in something like a nail polish bottle with a brush with heat resistant bristles.

I hope this helps people transition to the ruby nozzle in their TAZ6 – the PA6-CF is incredible material.