Might find this useful… Just get one of those cheap Harbor freight dial indicators. Bolt it to this part.
Makes it real fast to level. Just jog the head around and adjust the bed till the needle doesn’t move!
If you see it’s 5 thou off… just adjust that 5 thou out. Super easy!
You can also check for any Z backlash… Zero the dial… jog 10 up, then jog 10 Down! The difference between the number and zero is your backlash.
I just put four heat inserts in the appropriate holes in the extruder mount.
Thanks jebba, yes… A couple of friends with A101s printed parts for three of them. Put mine together last weekend…
Still setting it up… was set back by a bad Hobbed bolt. Now it’s extruding like a champ… Now gotts work out why my heat bed connector was smoking and melting this afternoon!!
THEN I need to print a spool holder
It’s a Vented Silicon rubber honeycomb I designed as a possible solution to sticking the heat pad to the glass bed. Experimental at the moment… but looks promising. (Garish colors are because I was experimenting with the different tints from a sample pack) It has a 300% stretch, and low durometer right up to 420 degrees F.
Hi John… I used the same 3mm screws that the TAZ is built with… just put the 3mm heat set inserts in the holes on the side of the x carriage… I used a 10-32 bolt and nut to attach the dial ind to the bracket. (5mm would work too… but I didn’t have any long enough).
It has a 300% stretch, and low durometer right up to 420 degrees F.
