So I started printing it but then noticed that it was lifting off exactly like yours and stopped the print. So I cleaned off the bed and watched the first few layers. It appeared that the middle was being printed and then the long part was being printed in the air slightly (I don’t add anything for the first layer at all, so it would be easy to miss with default settings I think). Anyway it appears that the model is not flush on the bottom.
If you repair the model I suspect your adhesion problems will go away as well.
-Mark
Mark Thank you, I could not see it in Cura Quick Mode but I did discover the layers view and now it shows the brim I added all the way around in the new file. Yeah!!
This is the Revised file which I can not run until late today or even tomorrow as I am tied up in another event. But it does make sense. Pilot error we used to call it when air craft came back with something stupid in the log book.
Added, it measured out to be slightly under 1 mm in difference.
The visitor left early and now I am running the file with full cover, 250/110, brim, Y direction, and pre-heated…
That second file is a lot closer, but the smaller side bumpout is still a fraction of a mm lower than the main body. It’s close enough that it should print anyways, but if it doesn’t you may want to correct that. Depending on what modeling program you are using, it might be easiest to just erase 3mm off the bottom of the part from the side, then re-extrude the assembly back down 3mm. You also want it sitting 0 degrees flat on the bed. That part looks like it is oriented correctly, but its something to be aware of in the future.
And I want to Thank You for your help. I went out just now and peeked under the cover and it looks fine! Another hour or so and it will be done. I still have some tweaking to do but to not have it curling up is a God sent.
I am wondering if going to Simplify 3D would be easier for me to work with?
I did find out that PETG filament seems to have all of the benefits of ABS and none of the problems. Same temperature and heated bed is not so critical. Found a roll on eBay 3 mm eSun, and kind of a translucent yellow, it would be great for those of us with John Deere equipment! The price was $30 to my door and I am going to try and see how it works.
Well that won’t work, most of my stuff will be somewhat structural. I think maybe Cura would work if I can switch over to the Expert mode. I need to make the bottom and top 3 or 4 layers solid. Right now its at 20 % fill.
Need to post the results. Back side has a line about 1/2 way up on right side, so not sure what happened there but its usable. It was stuck so hard to the bed, had a difficult time getting it off! Note the scraper marks, Might try the other one without the brim.
Hope the almost 1200 views means someone else has learned a trick or two.
I’d keep the brim and raise the nozzle height with the z-offset gcode setting. Probably just .1 - .2mm… which would be really hard to do with the endstop knob.
Great looking print overall… the anamolies on the back are going to be difficult to troubleshoot. The rough surface seems only on that one quadrant, and not throughout the entire layer. Try slowing down the print speed or if possible just the final perimeter layer.
Print #2 came out perfect, no irregular spots, printed in the expert mode with 30% fill and top and bottom layer 1 mm thick (?). No brim by accident and I still had problems getting un-stuck. Job done and happy camper.
Now waiting for a TAZ 6 to be ready to purchase, don’t want to give up the self leveling.
Enclosure (blanket) , 250/110, bed one wipe with alcohol, some pre-heating, TAZ black ABS.
