Wanted - Taz 6 - Removable flexible bed mod ideas

I saw the new modular bed system for the Taz 6. It’s a removable glass sheet, pei one side, bare glass other side. With the heater and spring sheet separate from the glass.

What I want to know is there a way we can use this new system to make the bed flexible and removable like Prusa’s mk3 or buildtaks flexplate system. There is a DIY way to do this linked below.


I’m actually trying to get a local shop in my area to laser cut some sheet metal for me, for my Delta printer. Sent them the stl and requested a quote, no idea how much it cost to laser cut something.
But for the Taz I worry about zoffset accuracy, because the probe doesn’t touch the build surface, it probes the washers.

So the idea is to place high temperature magnets under the bed somewhere to hold another spring steel sheet with a build surface like lokbuild, buildtak, pei etc on top. Or use some sort of clips to hold the 2nd sheet to the first. Any way once done, let cool and flex to remove. No more struggling with prints stuck to plate, no more cuts to your fingers, etc.(The clam shell knife is litterly dangerous and has drawn blood). This works awesome on my mk3, wish I had something like this for my Taz 6, which I’m using less and less to be honest.

Hoping for your guys ideas and input.

Get the BLTouch - it’s really nice…

BLTouch is nice. But how does it help with removing prints off a flexible bed?

You would no longer need the standard Taz 6 bed mount design - you could make up anything you want since the washers are irrelevant…

I ditched the PEI a long time ago - just glass and whatever I need to make whatever I’m printing stick.

Point taken… Thanks for responding :mrgreen:

I suppose what’s most feasible is best. I love my MK3’s removable flexible bed. It inspired a DIY mod for my Delta.


Was hoping to collibrate with some Taz6 owners to accomplish same for taz6

You can buy the Taz 6 silicone heater pad by itself and stick it to whatever you want - you could use a thin piece of aluminum (3mm) and then do the flex mod on top of that.

If you like the BuildTak - I think they make a flexible magnetic one now?

I liked Buildtak but it’s just not durable enough - when you print something at 280° it bubbles and gets all crappy just like PEI.

I also Insulated the bottom of my heater pad with fiberglass pad + fiberglass coated with Al foil - the Al bed underneath the heater doesn’t even get warm now = more heat to glass faster.


Thanks for sharing your ideas. My question about using the Taz6 silcone heater - it takes up almost the whole surface of moving plate. There isn’t much place to put magnets around the edges. Maybe we could use clips to hold additional plate? Although the magnet solution is so much more elegant. Idk if it’s a good idea to put the magnets 1st then apply silcone pad.
Will there be enough surface area for adhesive with magnets in between the two plates? Will having magnets between plate and silcone heater cause heat spreading issues?

Try Lulzbot’s modular bed then something like PrintinZ or FLEKS3D instead of the glass/PEI. Or try a thicker eighth to quarter inch PEI sheet.

I didn’t have much luck with the PrintinZ and returned to the PEI. It’s clean and efficient… no tape, no abs-juice or hairspray to clean up.

If you use strong enough magnets (neodymium N52) they will pull right through the heater and the plate no problem - just adhere them using the same 3M transfer tape that they use to hold the heaters and PEI sheets down - available on amazon as are many many magnets - I would think 6 well placed 0.25" x 1" disk magnets would hold pretty good - I can test if you like - have a ton of magnets laying around for projects…

Actually the silicone heater itself must have some Fe in it - magnet sticks to it pretty good without anything on the other side! And this is a counter sunk magnet so not even as strong as a solid disk:

These are the magnets I used for my delta. (ended up using 7 instead of 4, just so there was no gaps between build plate and metal sheet, as you can see I was afraid to put any on heater pad itself)

They are very strong but more importantly are N42SH grade for high temperature applications. Most regular magnets lose magnetic attraction force with higher temperatures.

The hesitation I had was for the magnetic field created by the magnets and metal plates passing thru the AC current of the heater pad when its on. I didnt know if that would cause a problem some how. I have no doubt the magnets are strong enough. If they arent they can be double or triple stacked.

If AC current passing through the magnetic field is no issue then we are on the something:

Taz 6 moving plate : magnets -> silicone heater pad -> rigid plate : flexible plate -> build surface of choice

Modded my Delta with something similar and I love it. One hand print removals, no tool marks on print or hot bed:

Magnets would be great. So how would you attach to them to the print bed without obstructing the nozzle?

The plan is to try and attach the magnets on the under side of the plate, same side as heating pad. Like the picture shown.

You have AC ruining through your heating pad???

N52 is the strongest readily available but by the quick test I posted they’re not even necessary - the quench temp is well above 180°C - so unless you running your heating pad above that - wouldn’t worry.

Yes the magnets go under the heating pad and pull through it to whatever you’re trying to stick down - must obviously be ferromagnetic.


Ah gotcha. Should work with magnets under the bed to affix a metal sheet above. The key may be finding an adhesive which can stand up to the flex and heat… maybe a RTV silicone.

I’d like to try a 5mm (.25in) PEI sheet with no backing on the modular system. Drill appropriate sized holes in the corners for magnets, would be an interesting way to attach on the steel sheet.

I’d like to see it when its done. I’m sure can we come up with something if we put our heads together.

On my Delta the print bed doesn’t move at all. So the magnets and the screw cutouts have a fairly easy time holding the bed down and stopping any lateral movement. However on the Taz 6’s bed, their can be large movements with sudden stops or alot of tiny movements of the print bed. This may lead to 2nd plate becoming misaligned if just held in place by magnets alone. Especially if a larger model is being printed. Maybe some sort of stand offs or notch/hook system? Just throwing ideas concerns.
Sorta how the washers serve as probe points but also hold the glass/pei in place… That would hold the 2nd plate in place also, but who wants to have to unscew washers for every print?

Saw this video today… Its another video outlining our goal.

Random guy

Makers Muse

The bed corners should keep the plate from moving around. On the TAZ5, the metal pieces that hold the PEI/glass to the modular bed can be rotated out of the way for removal…

As for the 5mm PEI, it would be an expensive experiment. A sheet is ~$100. But then again if its not going to be nicked by tools, it becomes less of a consumable. Just need to scoff the surface every so often to reinvigorate the surface.

There is an old thread about testing with the PEI. Some posts cite that the PEI in thicker sheets bow when repeatedly heated, which is concerning. But there are positive posts from people that haven’t experienced this. It could simply be laying the PEI down so that it curves into the metal bed, and the corners are secured by the metal fasteners.

Here’s an interesting epoxy to bond PEI to metal.

The BONDiT B-4x series offers good heat resistance, flexible/elongation. A bit pricey at $66 for 50mL and a minimum of $100 from the factory… so its $132 for epoxy.

If the steel is stainless it will likely not hold a magnet - some cheaper non-austenitic stainless will be magnetic…

Also why stainless - I would go with 1/8 or 3/16 aluminum plate - half the weight and a much much better conductor of heat…