Another anti Z wobble device

Thanks for replying :slight_smile:

So to be sure, you suggest doing the openrail z axis mod instead of doing this anti-wobble mod?

If I may ask again, where did you purchase the Openbuilds parts in Europe? Depending on what that ends up costing I’ll decide on that or the bushings :slight_smile:

No, anti-wobble is a must in any case. You have to get rid of the side forces introduced by the threaded rods.
The Z axis mod is more complicated, that’s why I recommend to stick with Z smooth rods but change to bearings without play (RJUM). Only X and Y Openrail.

For the X and Y I orderd parts on: for all the screws for all the Openrail things
Ebay for all the heat inserts (“Einpressmutter messing” is a good search word for German area, Rampa inserts are also suitable)

I ended up with roughly 150€ for the Hardware.

Alright, I see, thanks.

I’m considering the bearings then. What do you want for them, shipping to Denmark included? :slight_smile:

For Z axis only? 4 bearings + 14€ registered shipping. Hm, lets say 50€ all together?

Alright with me. I’ll send you a PM.


I just wonder what length do you use for the 4mm rod pointing along the Y axis?

I just made this and i cut my y-Axis rods to about 6mm and my X axis rods to 25mm

I have no numbers written down, sorry.

How is your 6mm fit? would you rather get a longer or shorter one instead?

The 6mm was a bit long but I wanted some meat to take off with the dremel when I was cleaning the edges. They’re more like 5mm

25mm is pretty long for the x pins, so I’ll cut them down to 18-20mm maybe.

I ended up super gluing my rods to their holders so just the slider piece moved. I had too much movement in all axis without pinning one end of the 4mm rods, in fact, one time the cylindrical piece snapped at the pin holes.

I like this design because you can quickly take the x-axis carriages apart by simply sliding the slider off the pins.

Never seen prints this good before! Thanks

I was wondering if anyone has tried Plum Couplings. I would think this has the same effect. Thoughts?

Z wobble occurs from the interaction of the leadscrew and the leadscrew nut usually. A plum coupling can help if its being induced by motor misalignment, but in the case of the taz where you have proper upper and lower bearings, it shouldn’t help. If it does you have a motor out of alignment.

Hi Sebastian,

Have you made any updates to this? I’d love a complete list of parts as i cannot source all the ones I need for the Peircet version.