Any TAZ 5 nGen users out there?

Having issues with spotting initial layer using nGen as you can see in the photos. The top looks perfect but the side that was on the build plate looks as if it is not filled in well. Any tweaks?

Thanks,
Chris


Increase initial layer line width? Lowering the nozzle by .1 should increase squash, and fill the gap between lines… but this could increase adhesion to the bed.

nGen has very good layer adhesion, so it is good for printing parts with tall walls (electronics enclosures, boxes, etc.). A down-side of nGen is that it can distort at a relatively low temperature. nGen parts cannot be used near heat sources. The part will be distorted if you are impatient and try to remove it while the bed is still at 85C.

Unlike most other materials, nGen can stick to char on the nozzle. This can produce very fine stringing. To minimize this problem, clean the outside surface of your nozzle.

The LulzBot cura profile works OK. Here is 3DBenchy from a TAZ 5 using nGen Standard Print, 0.50 mm Nozzle, 90% flow, 230C extruder, 85C bed.



The nGen High Speed, 0.50 mm Nozzle profile allows the infill pattern to show through. (230C extruder, 85C bed, 100% flow)
2631020-1-2-3.jpg
The next time I have a print like this, I would try increasing the bottom/top thickness and shell thickness to 2mm to better cover up the infill pattern.

Wear safety goggles when removing support material. nGen pieces can shatter and launch fragments.

A likely cause for narrow first-layer extrusion is that the z endstop is set too high. Another possibility is that the filament was slipping in the extruder, potentially because it was too cool when the print started. The first layer prints OK if your printer is set-up correctly.

I am noticing my nozzle is getting a bit dirty but I hear conflicting ideas on what works best to keep a clean nozzle. Some say scrub pad with acetone, some say wire brush, some say wire brush will short things.

What procedure(s) do you use weekly to keep ur TAZ 5 nozzle clean?

Thanks,
Chris

(Heater) 24 volts + (nozzle on Mini) 5 volts + conductive wire brush = Loss of ~$100+ RAMBo
Note: This will also be true on the Taz 6. :wink:

You also take a chance of shorting the two heater leads together with the wire brush and blowing the heater Power F.E.T. on the RAMBo. If you’re lucky the fuse will blow first!

I use a blue scrub pad daily to clean nozzles, but I print a number of printer test PLA leak pieces. So Acetone use is not a option for that. So on my Taz at home I use the blue scrub pad on the HOT nozzle then Acetone on a paper/cloth towel to clean the COLD nozzle. First gets some of what Acetone can not clean off(burnt/hardened).

Thanks for the tip. When you say blue scrub pad what do you mean? Is this a special type of pad?

Thanks,
Chris

Scotch-brite Scouring pads or Mr Clean magic eraser type.

Thanks again. Is the blue scrub pad dry or soaked in water or some solution?

I use mine dry, since the nozzle would be hot at the time of use.

I really like nGen, but the Lulzbot nGen standard .5 profile jams the printhead against the top rails at the completion of the print!! :astonished: The ending G-code is obviously wrong. I compared the ending gcode to the gcode on the ABS and it is radically different. Anybody else run into this?

THIS!!!
:astonished:

Just happened tonight and jammed my Z steppers! Never before and never since. Had to relevel a bunch of things. No permanent damage.

Seriously, ini profile needs to be revised by Lulzbot ex post haste.

As an aside, I think the ending code in all profiles should keep the bed at removal bed temp to spare the PEI bed from bubbling or adhering too securely. Just sayin’