Anybody else sharpen their print bed scrapper?

I bought the premium tool kit with my sidekick…but the scraper was flat. I ended up putting marks in the PEI surface. Anyway, I ended up putting a bevel on it…not quite a knife, but it works a lot better now for getting ABS off the bed without marking up the PEI surface.

I mention this because I’m a newb and maybe I should not have put an edge on the scraper? But it gets under ABS prints that haven’t wapred a lot easier. (The warped ones are no problem to get off, but they are worthless to me).

What do you guys think?

Mine is a knife edge.

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did you sharpen it or did it come that way. I sharpened mine but the I still have a small flat on the tip of mine. Maybe I’ll go all the way and sharpen it to a knife edge.

Make sure the bottom of the scraper is parallel with the bed, otherwise you will have dig-in issues.

Also, I switched to 1 mm PEI sheet (Amazon.com) for better durability and longer life. I did not need to adjust temperature settings, and am getting 3 to 5 times the life expectancy of the stock PEI sheets Lulz supplied.

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How long will my current PEI last do you reckon? So far, so good. I have done a “dig in” so I got some fine sand paper and got rid of the scratches. Still seems pretty think but I haven’t had it that long.

Llulzbot stock pei For my Taz6 is pretty thin and surface damage is unrepairable, but worse, being thin it has less support against being pulled off the bed when you are removing the print. My current sheet (1 mm) I removed after about a year when the adhesive gave out, cleaned it and put it back on with new 468MP adhesive. I got about 6 months out of Lulzbot’s PEI, printing around 5 Kg filament a year.

So avoiding dig-in is important. I use a razor - scraper, dulled with the bottom edge ground parallel to the bed, to start the removal, finishing with a 4" wide putty knife if needed, and lots of rubbing alcohol applied throughout the operation from a spray bottle.

Arthur

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If you are using the Glass/PEI bed (instead of the magnetic flex bed) then I mostly print on the glass side and use MagiGoo. MagiGoo has a strong bond when the bed is hot … but the part lifts up pretty effortlessly once the bed is allowed to cool. Tools aren’t needed to remove the part.

I have two TAZ printers (Workhorse & Pro) and both use the same size glass/pei. So I ordered a spare bed to have on hand in case one is damaged … and it came in handy. I swap the bed and keep printing … then get to work replacing the PEI.

It’s a bit of a pain to get off. Put it the freezer a while and that makes it a little easier to peel off the old PEI but then you’ll still have to clean off the adhesive. Lots and lots of isopropyl alcohol and a razor scraper … and eventually I got it pristinely clean.

Order a new sheet of PEI … slightly oversized (e.g. a 12" sheet would be fine for the 300mm square bed. Note that when ordering PEI, you can sometimes specify which side has the adhesive. PEI sheets are usually gloss on side and matte finish on the other.

Carefully start peeling the backing (almost helps to have two people) and SLOWLY apply while using a squeegee tool to press it as flat as possible and eliminate the air bubbles. You will get some air bubbles. Seems like those slowly went away over time.

Anyway … the point of ordering oversize PEI is that you don’t have to be careful about lining up the edge of the PEI perfectly with the glass … just do a sloppy fit. Once done … take a razor knife and glide it along the edge of the glass and it will trim the PEI to look factory new again.

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You can also order PEI sheets in various thicknesses. Many have found that using a sheet that is thicker than the original seems to last longer.

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I sharpen my putty knife to a knife edge as well, but it requires some care, you can tear up your bed surface quickly if you get too aggressive. For what it’s worth, PEI never woked very well for me, I could not keep the air bubbles out. Have had much better luck wtih Dobsty. Will probably triy one of the flex beds next.

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