So I’m pretty upset with myself. New Taz 5 owner, have maybe a dozen prints done and catastrophe struck. I had been having sporadic issues with prints lifting from the build plate using ABS. Done prints were ok, others not. Well I was doing a long print (22 hours) so I wanted to be sure everything my print stayed down as not to waste the filament being used. I read some people used the LulzJuice so I made up a batch and applied it to my bed. Well after the print was done and FULLY cooled, needless to say it was pretty much welded to the bed. Read to put the plate in the freezer, which I did and it was still stuck. Gave it a few whacks with a protected mallet and that’s when it happened. What I believe to be the PEI came up with the print. My heart of course sank. I’ve emailed both the company I bought it from and Lulzbot waiting to see if anything can be done as far as warranty goes. If it’s not covered, can anyone tell me how easy it will be to replace the PEI. I saw an article on it, but wanted to get some advice if I need to go down that road. Thanks everyone. Also, any way I could had gone about removing the print differently in case this happens again? Can I assume I shouldn’t use the juice again??
You need to try to remove the print at the 50 C temp point the plastic/bed bond is less at that temp. If you use the slurry you will have to work much harder to get the print off, but it can be done.
The trick to properly removing a print from a PEI sheet, is to use mechanical leverage to gently seperate it from the plate. You want to apply force upwards on the bottom of the print while at the same time applying force downwards on the bed. The best tool I’ve found for doing that is this cheese slicer with the slicy bit taped over. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SDQGL6/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1/175-8720493-8511716?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_r=1100KY3Q0TXFFDPPDMBZ&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_p=1944687762&pf_rd_i=B000SO6VM4
As far as the PEI goes, if it’s covered under warranty, go that route. If it isn’t, it is possible to replace it with some effort. First inspect the PEI sheet. is it intact? did it crack when it came up? If it looks good, you will want to remove any residue from it, clean it with Isopropyl alchohol, then look to removing the adhesive from the bed. That is the tricky part.
To remove the bed adhesive, you can try putting it in the freezer and pulling the sheet off. If that doesn’t work, you can use an orange oil based adhesive remover like goo gone (very sparingly) without getting any of it on the underside of the glass plate where the heater is glued on. Once you have the adhesive removed, use glass cleaner 3 or 4 times on the top surface to make sure absolutly every last spec of oil is removed from the glass.
Next you will want to apply a 12" square of 3M 465MP double sided adhesive if you can find it. All my usual sources are out of it at the moment, so you may have to just buy a new PEI sheet with adhesive already applied for $45 https://itworks3d.com/product/pei-sheet-lulzbot-taz/?v=7516fd43adaa
Ended up contacting the manufacturer…and WOW what great customer service! Sent the e-mail Friday night, and got a reply on Saturday…SATURDAY! Who replies on a weekend anymore!! They said I probably shouldn’t had used the juice on the PEI plate and since it wasn’t mentioned in the manual they would send me out a new plate this week and will revisit the manual to possibly add that in! He also gave me some tips on getting better bed adhesion! Top notch all the way! So glad I went with LulzBot! Thanks guys for the help here. I appreciate it immensely!
Yeah… be careful what you read on the Internet and even in these forums. The PEI bed is a different beast than the older PET, glass, kapton or blue painters tape.
Also don’t use sharp edged tools to remove objects from the PEI… a razor blade blade comes to mind. Try the cheese slicer(sans slicing) suggested by piercet or this artist knife which is smaller, but provides good leverage. I have this ring of artist knives, but if you can find the large #1 or #2 (they look like cheese slicer w/o the cutter) that’s all you’ll need. Slide the tool under the print (in the X-axis seems to work best), and work your way around the print… Don’t pry up, it will cause your bed to bubble.
PEI is a great build surface. The key to adhesion is surface area (brim), and initial nozzle distance. If objects are adhering too much and your bed is level, give the endstop a quarter to half turn CCW. Or alternatively, set a .1 to .2 Z-Offset in slicing software. Both will increase initial nozzle to bed distance.
Hope that helps. Take care of that new bed.
Thank you both for the suggestions and help! I will look into those tools for sure!