We had a customer today that was unable to successfully compile and upload the 24v Marlin firmware when using the latest version of Arduino, 1.0.5-R2. If you encounter errors when compiling, try the base 1.0.5 versions found here: http://code.google.com/p/arduino/downloads/list
Any idea which module it was failing on?
the u8glib functions, then the sdcard related functions as well.
I have the same problem. You cannot compile anything above v3.0 and you have to use v1.0.1 of the compile software to get it done. Has anyone successfully compiled anything using 1.0.5 or firmware > 3.0?
This is a BS update. My printer is dead from the update. Won’t run a file and I’m the customer that this post refers to. The instructions need a major rewrite and need to be done so you can print the instructions and carry them to the printer so the update can be done. Not everyone’s PC is sitting there next to the printer connected to the Net. I have three PC’s in my shop that are standalone.
Any ideas as to why my printer won’t start a job? It just sits waiting on the hot end and the bed to heat, while both are at the temp they are supposed to be.
Did you specify the bed and hotend temperature in the Slic3r settings? They are 0 degrees (disabled) by default. If you did specify a temperature there, the print job won’t start until both specified temperatures are exactly what it thinks they are supposed to be. Not 230.01 and 110.01 degress, not 229.99 and 109.99 degrees, but exactly 230.00 and 110.00 Which takes forever for it to lock in on. Try stripping those lines out and see if it doesn’t start printing instantly.
Edit: if you are unsure of those settings, try downloading one of the gcode files from download.lulzbot.com and see if that starts printing instantly. if those work, it’s definitely the temperature setting in slic3r.
With all due respect, I know how to run the machine and I don’t use Slic3r. I flashed the Arduino with the old version and the machine runs fine now. The update isn’t working.
Seems to work just fine for me. Since you seem to have things under control and don’t need any help though, I’ll leave you to it. Good luck getting it working on the new firmware .
It may work fine for you but it may not work for everyone…and that’s the point. It didn’t work on my machine so there may be an issue with the firmware, the loader or my machine. There are a lot of variables in play here. In addition to that when I went back to the 2013Q4 Firmware the EXACT program that I tried to run on the latest firmware ran just fine so would that be a slicer issue?
Hello again! If you’d like to contact me again over the phone feel free, I’m sure we can help you get up and running, Since your computers are not connected to the net, it may take a bit more time and a bit more patience. We’ve been able to help everyone that needed assistance with this update. I’m confident we’ll be able to help you as well. You can reach us at 970-377-1111 x610 (Support). You’ll want to make sure that you have the following items:
This version of the Arduino IDE
Another version of the Arduino IDE
One more version just in case
An archive manager, we recommend the free and open 7zip
Your paperwork from the printer, or your Esteps value. If you don’t have this information, contact us at email@example.com with your 3D printer serial number so we can pull this value from our logs.
The GCode file you are trying to print
One thing you’ll want to change, is setting the bed at 110C. The TAZ uses a silicone heated bed, so the thermistor has a bit of a different reading then the actual temp. By setting the bed at the recommended max temp of 85C, you’ll still have great part adhesion, since the bed will be warmer than what’s read. Use the recommended ABS and acetone solution to serve as the final key to the part adhesion puzzle.
I understand that it can be frustrating to have downtime or to encounter errors. We’ll be able to get you up and running.
Thanks for the help, much appreciated. As it stands I may try the new firmware but for now the printer is running and making good parts. If the Power resistor dies, I’ll just replace it, I’ve got more here in the shop. I’ve never run the bed at 110C, the max it has ever run is 90C. The hot end has only run to 235C and never above. I figure I had a bad load of firmware. We’ll see when I flash the Arduino again if it completes without error.
Right now I have an issue with the right side X axis bearing holder twisting. I may end up machining these parts out of 7075-T3 and forgoing the plastic.
I finally had some time to mess with the new firmware and got it loaded up and running. It takes a longer get the bed to heat up as opposed to the prior version. I’ve had to change the settings in Simplify 3D so that the programs I post out now won’t wait for the temps to stabilize.