Buildtak, my experience

I have tried a Buildtak film for some days before giving up.
Sometimes the parts stick so hard to the platform that is almost impossible to remove the parts.
It is a platorm built to stick parts on it, and it does it very well, but by no means it is intended to regular printing. When I finish a print I presume I will be able to remove it from build platform!
If the part get glued to the Buildtak film, the only way to get the part away is by pure brute force. Then damaging the Buildtak film or not is a matter of luck.

Applying glue or hairspary to the bare glass is better than Buildtak, and cheaper.

IMHO, don’t waste your money on Buildtak!

inaki.

PEI is the future, until the next future. But it really is great. We’ll have it for TAZ soon too.

You are probably printing too close to the bed. Try increasing the distance from the nozzle to the bed either by adjusting the endstop, the bed, or setting a z offset in your slicer.

I tried buildtak with my prusa i2 (before getting my TAZ). Buildtak worked really good for me compared with painters or kapton tape. Yes you are probably too close to the bed. And also- if you are printing in PLA, buildtak allowed me to not have to heat up the bed at all, (which saved me 20 min per print on my i2). Once I stopped heating the bed for PLA, the buildtak worked like a charm.

When I got the TAZ i tried its default PET film first with the heat settings as recommended by Lulzbot. Works like a charm, and its just so easy to properly set z height and (re)level the bed, that I dont have problems and I havent used the buildtak on my TAZ.

I’m using builtak at work on my Makerbot and as long as you have the height correctly adjusted it works well. You need to start out too high and slowly lower your z stop until you get good adhesion. If you start too low you end up with your print welded to the bed and either the print or the buildtak is going to hurt getting it off. I started out on the TAZ with the stock PET tape, but soon damaged it when removing prints. My previous printer was a Solidoodle so I took a page from that book. I bought a 12" square of window glass, trimmed the 4 corners at a 45 degree angle, spritzed it with same AquaNet (hairspray) clipped it to the existing glass bed and all is well. When the print finishes you pull the glass off, it cools rapidly and the parts pop off, then you clip it back on and you’re ready to print again.
YMMV but it works for me :smiley: .

TiM

Well it works for some filaments but not all. AVOID IT WITH FLEXIBLE FILAMENTS!

I know, I ruined one trying to print Soft PLA. It stuck so bad that layers were ripped from the print and the use of a solvents to try to remove the embedded material caused the surface to crack (acetone will do that).