Has anyone had experience with printing Chinchilla material on Lulzbot (Pro,Workhorse specifically). We are trying with our Pro. The material is proving challenging.
Not exactly. We do print Filaflex, which has a similar durometer. As I recall we use the same profile as Ninjaflex.
What specifically are the issues you I are having?
Good morning Brian,
I am struggling with just loading: at 230-250c will not feed even adjusting tensioner to a loose pressure. I can get it to feed a bit at 270c but the filament appears to be “scorched”( brown tinting on exterior). I am still working with but was curious if others had a solution to share quicker. Thank you for your time and efforts on this. “Together we can”- this group is awesome. Have a great day
Best Regards,
Paul Burdick
Senior Engineering Machinist
WaterPik
1730 E Prospect Rd.
Fort Collins,Colorado 80525
970-221-6099
I can’t speak to the WH hotend efficacy, but ave you cleaned the nozzle/melt zone? I print ninjaflex fine on my OG mini and Taz (with BMG). I have a mini2 with an aero hotend that is less-effective at moving material, so I need to print slower with that. For all of them, though, I make sure I’ve run some cleaning filament through first. Otherwise, residual higher-temp plastic can tend to grab the softer, lower-temp ninjaflex.
Thank you for the input. I am still trying. It will happen sooner or later.
I agree with @intelinc, run filament cleaner before and after using flex. The workhorse hot end is bad at jamming when changing filament types.
We usually loosen the tensioner all the way to load, then crank it all the way tight to print (which probably squishes too much, but it’s easy to train operators).
We also changed our slicer profile to extrude an extra 100mm in the skirt, because the WH firmware will over-retract oftentimes when starting a print.
You might also reduce your speed to around 30mm/s until you get it working smoothly, just to eliminate that as a cause. We’re able to run flex well above 60mm/s though.
What size nozzle are you using? We haven’t tried flex below 0.5mm.
Thank you for the tip. We are using the .5mm nozzle
I’m also having trouble with Chinchilla.
I’ve got a Lulzbot Tax Mini2. Recently replaced the hot end (within the last 6 mos).
My problem is that I can’t get the Chinchilla to load. It gets right in behind the previous material, and starts to come out a bit. I definitely see it coming out, but then the feed just stops. I’m putting the temp up to 235, which is the upper temp for the material.
I have some cleaning filament on order, so I hope that it works to use that before switching.
I can easily print with NinjaFlex, and have great success with that material.
@3Bots were you able to get the Chinchilla to print?
I have a 2.8 Titan Aero on my TAZ6 and Chinchilla wouldn’t load. Like, at all, and lord knows I tried… Returned it, must need a dual gear extruder to work.
When printing Chinchilla on the SE tool head, I have found that using the NinjaFlex profile is a good starting point.
From there, you would want to lower your print speed a little more.
Also, lower the tension of the tool head idler substantially. You want that tension to be very loose.
The tension is the key to my own testing.
With the loose tension, lowering retraction may also prove helpful. For my print, disabling retraction worked really well.
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I’ve got my chinchilla filament to load but whenever I start my print, it’s not extruding and claims there is a jam. However, when I purge the filament continously, it does come out perfectly. What am I doing wrong? I have loose tension, running the ninjatek profile with lowered print speed… any thing else?