Cura profile for PETG?

Just make sure it’s 100% cotton (or wool would work, I suppose). Guess what happens when you use a synthetic blend to wipe a hot nozzle.

See my post above on using Scotchbrite pads for cleaning, work great and been using for a year or so.

Just scrolled back through and didn’t see your post. Was it in a different thread?

Do you use the green scotchbrite pads? What temperature have you found they can handle? I’ve used them when things are cold, but was afraid of melting the pad, so haven;t used them to wipe down the nozzle when at print temperatures… will it work for that?

Been using for about a year, I print either ABS or PETG and wipe when its hot.(230-250 C) No issues, zero. Purchase at supermarket in dish / pan washing dept or home improvement stores in cleaning dept. It looks to be the same stuff used on the Mini for nozzle wiping pad. I would stay away from any solvents other than DNA on any 3D printer. Yes green scotchbrite.

The Mini I gave to the school came with what looked like felted wool strips on the nozzle wiping pad, not scotchbrite. I’ll switch to the green scotchbrite when these wear out.

I have the stock cleaning pads in my Mini. I use the scotchbrite pads for manual cleaning. I usually give it a wipe off while warming up once it hits about 220C. I fold them over to make sure I don’t wipe with a finger, just a couple passes is all it takes. You don’t have to push hard, the pads are more about surface area to catch the plastic than scrubbing it off. Sort of like the wire mesh soldering iron cleaners if you do electronics work.

The pads I have are blue non-scratching versions. Mostly because we had a pack of them already in the kitchen and I could just steal a couple. :smiley:

Sebastian kindly posted a PETG profile last year, but I’m wondering if since then anyone has done more experimentation and come up with any changes. I use a Taz 5, and have printed nothing but PLA so far, with great results. But I am about to switch to eSun PETG for heat-resistant prints, and I’d love to benefit from the experience of others before I take the plunge. Thanks!

Here’s the profile I’m using. It’s working well so far.
PetG v1.ini.zip (2.44 KB)

Looking at your photo, do you have a left-side blower on your extruder? If so, It seems awfully high.

lulzbot mini…

+1 for Scotchbrite pads. I do a quick wipe with it when the nozzle heats up and have no problems with auto level. I am just wondering if their is any chance of wearing out the brass nozzle using Scothbrite pads? I doubt it bur just wondering.

Depends which type, I believe Scotchbrite is 3M brand name and it comes on different grits, like sand paper.
The colors range from white (extremely fine) to brown (very abrasive). I use either blue or green, these grits do not seem to damage the nozzle much.
Initially I was using the brown type before every print for a month and this was the result (left lightly used .5mm nozzle)


Thanks, I have been using the green ones.

Cura’s “ColorFabb XT” profile is supposed to be for PETG - I actually used it just now to print a stack of ball and socket parts and that came out great also.

PETG bed adhesion was trickier than I thought it would be, don’t walk away until you are 100% the first layer is established and stable!

Hi,

I’ve been struggling to get PETG to work. For comparison, PLA prints perfectly (blue). The PETG print has every print issue possible - warping, stringing, blobbing, sliding…

I used the ColorFabb XT profile and bumped up the temp to 250. Otherwise the first layer would not stick while printing a circle.

Printer is Lulzbot Mini + Aerostruder V1 + Modular bed
Overture PETG white filament, did my best to keep it dry
Used windex on bed as glue is a mess. The windex works great!

Thanks in advance!

I don’t have the same printer as you … my printer uses a “hardened steel” nozzle and requires running at higher temps.

However… while you could run the part cooling fan at 100% power (typically not at the first layer), PETG doesn’t like much fan power… maybe 10-15% (my profile allows it to scale up to as much as 30% if the layer times start getting short… but normally it doesn’t exceed 15%). So I’m wondering if perhaps it’s too much of the cooling fan. If you don’t use any fan you get a shinier finish. A small amount of cooling fan results in more of a matte finish.

I use 250°C (and even as much as 260°C) with my nozzle… but if you have a brass nozzle then you may want a print a bit cooler (230°C would be a wild guess … I typically just print a temperature tower to work out the optimal temp).

I think I use 70°C as the bed temp.

Thanks, will try with less fan power. That is one setting I have not tweaked yet. I printed a smaller design (the XYZ calibration cube) with the unmodified ColorFabb XT profile (235C) and it came out quite nicely. So its something to do with larger print volumes. Hoping the fan setting will make a difference.

@TheVirtualTim Thanks for the fan suggestion. Made a big difference. I also added a brim to better support the triangular section. Still a little stringing and blobbing but am at a better place to start tweaking other settings.