We get asked this frequently so I figured a post would be helpful.
Feel free to chime in with suggested adds/ changes/ corrections. We start with the features of the TAZ 1, and note changes/upgrades as they happen in later models.
Additional details and many pictures available in the HOLP http://devel.lulzbot.com/HOLP/
TAZ 1-5 have the same bed size and print volume.
- Budaschnozzle hotend up to 240C
- Heated bed up to 110C
- PET bed plastic
- 12V 360W power supply with printed endcap
- No LCD or card reader, USB only (LCD cable, housing and panel can be added)
- Printed Y axis end plates, control box, and Lulzbot dual color logo plate
- Toolhead harness has 2 4 pin connectors- 4 pin connector for stepper with multicolored wires, 4 pin connector with 2 red wires for the hotend resistor and 2 orange wires for the hotend thermistor.
- Adds LCD with SD card reader for untethered / headless printing
- Mid production- Upgraded to 24V for faster heating, 24V 360W power supply, silver chassis with printed endcap
- acrylic laser etched logo plate
- metal control box
- Survived the fall 2013 flooding of the manufacturing facility!
- printed Z nut spring upgraded to a stiffer more durable design
- Metal Y axis endplates with printed bearing and motor mounts. Front and back plate have different arches, are not interchangable, and can’t be re-drilled to convert one to another.
- Z axis lead screws increased in diameter with different thread pitch- which is why TAZ 3 firmware doesn’t work correctly in a TAZ 4)
- Z axis lead screws located by bearings at each end, adding additional bracing to the smooth rods. (TAZ 3 Z rod is only located by the flexible coupler and Z nut)
- Metal X axis endplates
- Larger diameter Z nuts.
- New flexible aluminum Z axis couplers between steppers and Z lead screws
- New control box: Cam lock connectors for all wires entering and leaving. Two extruder connectors on the exterior of the box, making it easier to add a second extruder. Wire exits moved to clear the new lower Z axis motor mounts (a TAZ 3 control box only works with creative modification) LCD Wire harness now externally removable for service
- Different wire harness routing
- Z axis endstop moves from Z motor mount to Z carriage
- Different wire harness routing
- Filament cooling fan (optional on earlier TAZ models).
- 24V 450W power supply, sealed molded plastic
- Toolhead harness adds 2 pin 24V PWM controlled wires for filament cooling fan
- Several Y axis motor mount side endplate holes shift 15mm from Taz 3 endplate positions.
- Y motor bracket changes slightly.
- Bed frame to main frame connectors change to prevent bed lifting and shifting.
- Minor changes to double bearing holder and single bearing holder
- Lighter X carriage with Dual Extruder cable hold down
- Larger diameter Z endstop target bolt (M5 compared to taz 3 M3) and stiffer spring allow for much more accurate Z height keeping and eliminates bed height adjustment keeping difficulty earlier Taz models were prone to
- Hexagon all metal hotend up to 300C
- .35mm nozzle in early production, .5mm nozzle in later production
- 3 versions of toolhead connectors through the production run: First: “V2A” 4pin + 4Pin + 2Pin + 2Pin, Second “V2B” 4pin + 4Pin + 3Pin + 2Pin to avoid mixing up the 24V filament cooler fan and 5V micro blower fan connections. Third through the end of production “V2C” 8x2 pin. LulzBot has a handy chart with adaptor part numbers for reference https://www.lulzbot.com/tool-head-adapters
- PEI bed plastic. More durable, lower maintenance (no acetone!!), better adhesion.
- 24V 450W power supply, sealed molded plastic in early production, 500W higher quality metal enclosed power supply in later production.
- Toolhead harness adds 2 wires supplying fixed 5V
To the hotend heatsink “microblower” cooling fan
- Hotend upgraded to “V2.1” which changes the heatsink cooling fan to a front mounted 5v with printed duct, adds a second filament cooler on the left side of the filament for more even cooling, and changes the toolhead carriage design.
- Print volume reduced slightly in X and Y to 11.06"
- “Auto bed leveling” added, which compensates for the print bed being off from parallel with the X carriage and the Y carriage not being perpendicular to the Z axis. Like the LulzBot Mini, the TAZ 6 runs a calibration routine at the start of every print where the print nozzle makes electrical contact with washers at the corners of the bed. The Z height values are fed into the firmware, and the Z axis runs up and down dynamically during the print to compensate. Also new is a “sanity check” during the bed calibration that halts the calibration if a value is outside a reasonable range. This feature automatically halts calibration, wipes the nozzle in a different pattern, then re-starts the calibration.
- Automatic nozzle cleaning wipes the nozzle on a replaceable pad prior to the auto bed level routine to help clean the nozzle and aid in good electrical contact during the bed calibration.
- X axis rods increase in size to 12mm
- all smooth rods and bearings are improved to an upgraded high accuracy system
- Z lead screws changed to a different spec, are now (shiny silver) stainless steel, no lubrication. Z nuts are interchangeable between TAZ 4/5/6
- New expanded metal control box housing consolidates power supply, RAMBo board, LCD Panel w/Control Knob and 1 power switch along with an exhaust fan into a single unit.
- Wiring is simplified and streamlined
- Steppers are all black
- X carriage is moved in between the Z smooth and threaded rods to reduce leverage
- ninjaflex washer is added between the X/Z carriers and Z drive nuts to reduce binding
- Z home is now accomplished with a push button at the left rear of the bed
- Z offset can be adjusted during the print from the LCD
- LCD text interface improved, with larger print in some sub menus and animated graphics for some operations.
- Y front endplate changed to match the Y rear endplate
- Corner brackets upgraded to aluminum
- Frame extrusions upgraded to locking T-Slots
- Travel maximum and minimum endstop switches on all 3 axis (prior TAZs had only minimums)
- Automatic temperature settings generated in Cura, no need to pre-set temperatures
- X maximum and Y maximum endstops added. Y endstops are relocated from the frame to the bed itself. X maximum endstop installed on rear of X carriage right blower fan. Wireing changed to match.
- Change to mounting feet and rod mount on Y bed corners using printed dampers
- Fillament guide path spinner mounts can now fold up against frame with the spinner removed
- https://www.lulzbot.com/cura automatically controls temperature through the entire print process.
Upgrading a prior TAZ to a TAZ 6 has a number of dependencies that limit piecemeal upgrades. The mechanical parts you’ll need are:
- 12mm x rods
- 12mm bearings
- control box
- aluminum bed plate
- Y front endplate (same as TAZ 4/5 motor end plate)
- extruder heatsink cooler fan
- filament cooler fan
- a pile of heat inserts
- wire, pins, and connectors for the required re-wire
You’ll need to print a bunch of parts as well. We sell many of them, and are working on a kit of parts based on some pre-production chassis from LulzBot
Upgrading a TAZ 4 to a TAZ 5 is covered in another thread, but to recap:
- Replace PET bed plastic with PEI Replace PET with PEI on the bed https://www.lulzbot.com/store/parts/lulzbot-taz-pei-sheet
- Upgrade the toolhead to the V2 hexagon
with requires adding wires to the extruder harness
- Flash the firmware to TAZ 5
Upgrading a TAZ 3 to TAZ 4/5 is far more involved.
If your want “Cool project, time and money aren’t really an object, I like hunting down obscure parts and printing my own upgrade parts” go ahead with a TAZ 3 to 4/5 upgrade
If you want a “TAZ 4/5”, just buy one ready to go. You’ll likely be money ahead (control box connectors are around $30 ea, for example), and will save a bunch of time.
- Perform the upgrades in Taz 4 to TAZ 5 above as needed.
- Upgrade the Z axis, which entails the first several points of the TAZ 4 upgrade list and is quite a bit of work and expense to do “correctly”, as it involved changing the wiring harness.
- Flash Firmware
- Upgrade the power supply. Not required, but the printer heats much more quickly.
- Add a filament cooling fan and wiring:
We also sell many of the necessary parts that are hard to source elsewhere https://itworks3d.com
Thanks to all that that helped with this!