I have been merrily printing, and ran into a bunch of issues, which end resulted in a bunch of wasted filament, but learning a bit more about the right tension and a ton about 3d software trying to fix a model.
I know the recommended ‘fine’ profile sets layers at .14mm, but wondering if anyone’s gone lower successfully and if it’s worth it.
Thanks,
Ted
you can, it takes a long time, and the Z offset issue gets more apparent. I’m working on a fix for that though. 0.01 is the thinnest I have attempted. My Taz is a little different than a stock one though.
recently i have been printing a lot in .125 it seems to fit well with the orther settings.
also i printed a lego block in .050 but that came a bit wobbly in the verticale as
Round objects tend to mask Z wobble. If you print a square object it is more noticeable due to the corners.
Planning to try the detail plates from Mjolnir to see how it works out. Does a Z-wobble mean I should try to print them in a particular orientation to reduce artifacts?
Ted
I wrote a little bit about low layer printing here. You need to calibrate your Z- offset (thumscrew for Z endstop) very precisely or your first layer will fail. Or you print the first layer much thicker than the rest.
Usualy, things get a little bit more complicated at 0.1mm. Everything beyond that I would call experimental. It’s possible, but you may need to fine tune some settings to get some prints and you will find out completely new limitations and problems 
Edit: One thing I wasn’t mentioning in the linked thread is the extruder resolution. One step of the extruder stepper results in a fixed amount of extruded filament. If you print very lwo layers, you can see the “pulses” when the stepper is doing a step…