heater resistor options

Hi,

My heater resistor is dead once again. It is the second time in the last two months.
It wouldn’t be much of a trouble but we have different standards in my country so I cannot find the one that will suit the heater block. Either it is too small or to weak or something else…

Luckily I still have one spare left, but I cannot order resistor from lulzbot every time it goes off. The shipping is just not worth it.

Any ideas?

thanks

edit:
Also I am very careful when insulating the resistor wires from the heater block, so It couldn’t have short circuited

It is a common part, that may be available locally in your country. Here it is on Digi-key in the USA:

http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/RWM06224R70JA15E1/RWMB-4.7CT-ND/1587939

The manufacturer is Vishay with part number RWM06224R70JA15E1.

http://octopart.com/partsearch#!?q=RWM06224R70JA15E1

Also, what TAZ/Buda do you have and what is your firmware? Firmware version is printed when you Connect in Pronterface.

Thanks,

-Jeff

Hi,

thank you for the data.
It seem that I cannot find that particular heat resistor nowhere around my place. I’ve tried everywhere.
And the shipping from the link you gave would be 120$ for a 1$ heat resistor :confused:

My bot is TAZ3.1 with Budaschnozzle 2.0 and firmware is Marlin 1.0.0

I would like some advice on getting this piece for my hotend: http://e3d-online.com/Electrical/Components/Heater-Cartridge-12v
Is it possible? Could it be more useful for me who cannot get his hands on the standard resistor?
And most important, what adjustments would I need to make?

Thanks

We have an updated version of the Marlin firmware that you will want to use: http://ohai-kit.alephobjects.com/project/marlin-resistor-update/ The heater cartridge should work, but you’ll want to PID tune your bed after applying the above firmware update. PID tuning instructions can be found here: https://www.lulzbot.com/support/fine-tune-your-marlin-pid-settings

Hi guys,

I want to share some results of analyzing our TAZ3 with oscilloscope. Since we are trying to find more permanent solution for heating, I called up an electrician-

We were trying to get a grasp on what’s going on while the heater is on.
We got, of course, different values for heat start, closing up on desired temperature, and maintaining the desired temp

Here is an image of the graphs overlapped. It’s made by hand but it shows those impulses when the heat command is set
So the only difference is in milliseconds duration of the impulse

What concerns me is that I’ve been told that the heater resistor uses much more power then it is designed for. Something like 12W even, and it has the label of 7W
It probably happens because it does not transfer the heat well, in my case. So naturally, the thermistor requires more power of it, in order to reach the level

I am trying to find a solution for better heat transfer. There are 2 options so far
-heater cartridge
-cementing the resistor