So I printed some tests with PETG and I have to say I really like it… with one small problem… the last piece I printed is stuck to the bed and I can’t get it off! How do I get this off without damaging my bed?
… Okay, I finally got it loose! So is there a trick to keep it from sticking to the bed too well? My bed Temp is 60°C.
Try increasing the Z offset a little. With PET you don’t need to help it stick to the bed by “squishing” the first layer down.
Sometimes it sticks on there pretty good anyway. I usually heat the bed a little more to help it loosen up and tap the back edge of the knife a bit to help get under the part. I find once I get under an edge, it usually pops right off. It takes a little practice. I tried a script someone posted on the forums here for keeping the bed temp up a bit for part removal. Not letting it cool down. For PET, Lulzbot recommends 45C for part removal, well, they say for T-Glasse, but it’s similar. If I hold the bed temp there, I find parts are often easier to remove.
Thanks again, ttabbal, I did increase the Z offset just a bit and I dropped the bed temp to 50° C and it’s printing beautifully and as long as I remove the print before the bed cools down it comes off pretty easily. After it cools down it does become much harder to remove which is the exact opposite of HIPS. Lesson learned , but it’s a cool filament to use. It makes very strong parts and the translucence is really nice on certain things. Next I’m going to try the solid black version of PETG to see how that works out. Thanks again for all your help! 
If you want to prevent your bed from cooling down after a print, you can make this adjustment in your end gcode settings.
In the end gcode settings, you will see a line:
M140 S0 ; Turn off heated bed
By changing the S0 to SXXX it will maintain the temperature of XXX until the printer is powered off, or manually changed.
That’s perfect, thanks Brent.I! I’ll add that to my gcode right now!
My understanding is that 50c is the removal temp for PETG. Below that it gets progressively harder to remove. I have my bed set to 80C for printing (in my unheated garage) and 50C for removal – that temp holding trick is a good one (I have it hold at 50).
The other thing you might try is designing in some tension relief – you can’t always do this for aesthetic reasons, but for my project boxes, I make parallel cylinders with a 1 mm radius, and drop them down on the Z axis so they take out a half cylinder scoop all along the bottom. This makes the bottom release more easily, gives you some undercuts to get your tools into, and stiffens the finished piece.
Excellent suggestions, hemocyanin, thank you! I never thought of modifying the box bottoms to facilitate removal from the bed. That’s brilliant and an easy fix.