HOT BOX 3DP ENCLOSURE SYSTEM (For Taz)

The screws will probably only cost me about $3 max so it’s not a big deal.

Nick,

Ok, it’s up to you. It was a mistake on my end so it’s only fair offer a refund for the mistake… keep me posted when you get there, if you’re having trouble figuring out a fix or finding screws I’ll help you troubleshoot things. My guess is that you probably just have to bump up one size of screw so the threads catch in the acrylic, I think a #8 screw should work, or possibly one size larger than that, you might have to drill the holes on the magnet plates a little larger also. Another option is to just epoxy the magnet plates right on there, make sure everything is lined up though :slight_smile:.

thanks, keep sharing your build progress.

So I head back to Boston for work and school on Wednesday trying to get this thing together before I leave. The laser cut panels should get here Monday. In order to match the black panels I primed and painted my pine with Rustoleum latex paint. I am going to cut all the pieces with a miter when I have the panels to ensure a perfect fit and then I can touch up any areas if needed.



I avoided paint on mine, wasn’t sure if there would be offgassing issues due to all the constant heat… I’m sure it shouldn’t be a huge deal unless someone is really sensitive, or if it’s in a main living environment like a living room, kitchen or bedroom etc. If it’s in the “car hole”, meh, no biggy.

Can’t be much worse than the ABS fumes :laughing:

Speaking with one of my professors about this enclosure, he suggested to paint it black, as that will help create a more uniform heat in the enclosure. As said before, can’t be worse than what’s already coming out.

Yep.

Power supply just went half way through a 30+ hour print… @#$!%!!!

printer power supply I’m talking about…havn’t even put that much use on the printer…not too happy about that.


*update: new power supply on it’s way. Covered by warranty. Once again, got a response back within a day. The print was for a client so time was of the essence.

For anyone just reading this now, still shopping around for printers, time and time again, Lulz and aleph have come through for me in a bind, so keep that in mind if you’re thinking about buying a lulzbot printer. Literally the best customer service I’ve every experienced. basically above and beyond. Same kind of treatment you’d find at a 5 star hotel, just shy of having your pillow fluffed :slight_smile:.

can’t wait to get this psu and get back in bidness.

would be interesting to see how much heat a tin foil inner lining would hold…

So the panels arrived today and I tried to do as much as I could. I need to get this bad boy as close to finished as possible by tomorrow night before I have to move. I must say, having everything laser cut was the way to go. I have no clue how anyone can make these holes by hand, I wouldn’t have the patience. I used Phenoseal between the panels and pine framing, this way I have an adhesive as well as a sealant. I didn’t have a table saw to cut the 45 degree angled pieces but I am hoping to borrow one tomorrow. I was looking over what I have left to do and saw the wiring for the fans are a bit off, you can watch the video below for more information about that. Let me know if anyone has any questions.

If video below does not work check out this link: https://youtu.be/ccTBfOnYU18
https://youtu.be/ccTBfOnYU18






Another quick note for anyone who bought the kit. I was wiring up the LEDs this morning and found that one of the connectors has the wires swapped. I tried to pop them out with an x-acto blade to switch them but that didn’t work so I just removed the heat shrink and swapped the wires real quick. Make sure you look over the wiring before soldering things together.


NB,

WOW, that’s weird man, stupid question but, sure you have them plugged in the right way around…???
thanks for sharing this, I’m assuming it would short if you left it plugged in that way and forgot to switch black for red at one end. I never noticed this when packing them. Weird. If anyone else has this issue with their jst wires, please comment here. Thanks again for posting this up. SICK looking build by the way, congrats.

NB,

In the video above, the fans are PC fans so they’re setup with three wires, one being for signal, the yellow, that would normally go into the mobo I’m assuming for speed control. We don’t need that one, just need the black and red. If you plug all the connectors in the right way it should all line up. In this case I don’t think it matters which side you plug the power + or - in at the end of the line, if anything, it will just make the fan spin the wrong way :slight_smile:.

However, like you explain in your video, just keep track of + and - and make sure they’re match throughout the connections. if they were mismatched at one of the connections, then you’d get a spark show…Pretty straight forward stuff.

The connectors can only go in one way so I am sure I am not doing that wrong. Also as you stated for the fans I am completely aware of what the yellow wire is for but I was just noting how the power and ground wires were running from the fans to the final power. This way when you power up the fan they rotate in the direction as indicated on the side of the fan.

I want to say that I had the same issue but it wasn’t a problem cause I got it working. I’ll check later tonight to confirm.

Yep, that’s what I noticed also. Anson got everything working ok. Can anyone else chime in? Again, just be aware of which wire goes where at the end of the line and everything should be ok. I tested the PSU and the fans before I shipped them out so all should be good.

Interesting to see how the laser cut panels go together. Keep in mind you got that done for a discount, which is awesome. To have all that done by a shop is going to get pretty expensive, probably more than most people want to pay. I’d love to offer pre-cut panels as part of the kit but so far it’s not looking too promising, just too expensive.

Update**

Feedtubeholder_1.2_Hbx, now in the main file dump on grabcad,

https://grabcad.com/library/hotbox-diy-enclosure-for-3d-printing-1

This is the one I modded to fit the flat panels of the hotbox. Enjoy.

WOW OH WOW. I am impressed at how well the acrylic worked out. I ended up just using a heat gun and heated the acrylic for about 8 minutes and bent it around the sound. Pretty happy on how it turned out. Well, I’m off to Boston hopefully I can do some more work on it there.


WoW indeed, how cool does that black look…making the Hotbox 1.0 look like a piece of crap (as in, my original natural wood version) lol… you guys with the paint, really onto something…Nice work Nick, very nice. Just imagine putting blue tinted LED’s in there, would be insane. Maybe throw in a strobe light :wink:


Ok, so guys, so I’m setting up a website to do pre-orders for more kits, and just to have a place where I can start selling other parts and mods for the this beast. I have some cray cray stuff planned. Can’t thank you guys enough for the support and seeing these builds come to fruition, and how awesome they look is really something else. If you guys can, whenever your builds are fully finished, shoot me your best photo’s @ jonswift1@hotmail.com. And I’ll put them up on the website.

Alright, so the website is up and running, if you’re interested in a kit, go there and you can pre-order one, either pay in advanced or pay upon MOQ reached… We might actually be ordering a few to keep in inventory, regardless of the MOQ so keep checking back. If you have a cool mod for the box, let me know and I might be able to put it up for sale on the site also, but I’d like to see it shared here first for development. In the meantime, I’m still working on the idea of having a complete metal kit so stay tuned for that. Hopefully we’ll be coming out with some other cool 3DP stuff also.

thanks for the support guys.

www.hotbox3dp.com

One of the tweaks that I did was to create a sliding stop part on the reel holders. I have a couple reels that had holes smaller than the end caps, so, being an engineering type, I made snug-fit sliders that can handle the small-hole reels. The box I am finding to run at around 95-105 degrees (summertime here) and is not affected by the AC or anything else. I ran a 32hr abs print of the terminator rex from pinshape that came out beautiful! I may not run PLA again as I have heat creep with it, and ABS prints great now.