I can't raise my Z offset high enough for my new Wham Bam bed plate

I just got a Wham Bam magnetic bed for my Taz 6. I removed the PEI sheet from the stock heated bed and attached the magnetic sheet directly to the glass with the heater still attached to the bottom.
When I put the bed in the printer and screw down the leveling washers, the steel printing sheet sits above the washers rather than below them like the glass bed does. Since the new surface is now higher than the washers it seems like it needs a positive Z offset, but the machine is only able to go to 0.

Wham Bam recommended these finger adapter things (Taz 4,5,6 Bed finger adaption - Wham Bam Magnetic bed Upgrade by L-D-G - Thingiverse) but they are too long and overlap the magnetic sheet, and also too tall and my screws can’t reach the threads of the hole on the bed.

Can I just add a washer under each corner to raise where the 0 of the bed should be? I’m attaching a picture showing the new printing surface resting above the washers. I can provide others if needed, but the forum will only allow me to post one.

Thanks for any help!

I replaced my TAZ 6 stock heated bed with the LulzBot OctoGrab™ Magnetic Flex Bed V2 and the LulzBot TAZ Modular 3D Printer Bed System and my Z-offset went from -1.2 to +0.3 so the machine is capable of positive Z offsets, M851 Z0.3:

Send: M851
Recv: Probe Offset X0 Y0 Z0.30
Recv: ok P15 B3

Can you explain how that works? I’ve been adjusting mine with LCD and scroll wheel, which only goes to 0. It looks like yours is actual Gcode. I’ve tried looking for guides on how to raise it higher, but I haven’t found one that I understand

How do you get your gcode to the printer? What slicer do you use? Do you connect the USB port? If so, what system is on the other end?

Most slicers have start (and end) gcode sections in the printer profile (or definition). These are editable and you can add (or subtract) whatever gcode commands you want at the beginning (and end) of the output gcode. The Z-offset can also be stored in the EEPROM on the printer controller. Once it is set and saved, the firmware will use it for each print job.

I can explain more after I know the answers to my questions.

I’m using Cura LE as my slicer and using an SD card to print. I don’t have anything connected to the USB port.

I’ve seen an editable gcode section somewhere in the printer settings of Cura but I’ve never messed with it, or any Gcode for that matter…

What version of firmware is loaded in the printer? When you turn it on the version will display in the LCD panel for a bit. What version of CuraLE? What operating system is running on the system with CuraLE?

There’s a whole new world of possibilities if you can connect your printer to the system with the slicer (or any system) with a USB cable. The most important would be that you can update the firmware on the printer.

I just checked my TAZ 6 and with the latest firmware, I can adjust the Z-offset to either side of zero (i.e. both positive and negative).

Printer Firmware: Marlin 1.0.2.19
Cura Version: 3.6.36
OS : Windows 10 Pro

I haven’t tried connecting the printer to anything yet. Moving my PC to the printer seemed like a huge pain, but I can make it work if I need to. I looked into Octoprint but Raspberry PIs are pretty hard to find at an affordable price anymore. If there’s an alternative piece of hardware I can use that’s around $100 or less I’ll grab one of those to use permanently when I can.

That version of Marlin is extremely out of date. Plug your Taz into the computer and use Cura LE to update to the latest version. That should allow you to raise the offset.

Wow, OK cool. Thanks for telling me. I’ll try that as soon as I can.

There are Raspberry Pi alternatives like the Orange Pi that might be easier to find. OctoPrint can be installed on just about anything that you can install Python3 on. There’s even a version for old Android phones. Older laptops are also usable.

While I have an RPi 3B connected to my TAZ 6, I also have a 10m (32.8ft) USB 2.0 Active M/F extension cable running from my desktop to the printer area and a USB Sharing switch so I can select the RPi or the desktop as the host for the printer. I don’t switch the printer to the desktop very often as I can update the printer’s firmware via an OctoPrint plugin.

You might want to check this link for an Orange Pi solution. Search the OctoPrint forums for other alternative solutions.

Thanks everyone for all the help. The solution in the end was to connect to my PC and update the firmware, that gave me the option to set a positive Z offset

I’ve used this tutorial on a number of machines.
I haven’t put my Wham Bam Surface on the Taz 6 yet…I planned to use the tutorial steps again. Would that work with the Taz?

If you have a touch sensor for the 6, that tutorial would be fine, but since the 6 uses the metal washers, there’s not much that will translate with a tutorial for a BLTouch.

Basically, you’re just going to have to measure the thickness of the Whambam system (for this example, the entire system including is 1.5mm thick), add that to the Z probe offset (so it will go from somewhere around -1.25 for the standard glass + PEI to +0.25). It’s best to start high and adjust down while you dial it in.

I have the Wham Bam magnetic flex bed on my TAZ6. I bought their complete kit with the PEX film in lieu of the PEI film. Bed switch, wiping pad and washers are stock and not modified. My Z-offset is set to +0.63mm. All works great! The beauty of the PEX sheet is that you don’t need the glue stick for such filaments as PETG and nGen.

Did you have an issue with your magnetic sheet pulling up along with the metal sheet when you tried to lift it? Now that I’ve gotten my Z offset fixed and gotten to try it, I can’t get it to stay in place. I’ve let mine sit for a couple of weeks while working on the offset, tried setting it face down with some light weight on top, and using bag clips to hold the sheet in place. No luck and customer service has stopped responding…

Obviously none of this is your problem, I’m just venting I guess. This is the most regrettable $100 I’ve spent in a long time

My kit came with 2 flexible metal sheets, 2 adhesive backed PEX sheets and 1 adhesive backed ‘rubberized’ magnetic sheet. The magnetic sheet adheres to TAZ6 glass bed after the original PEI sheet is removed. The PEX coated metal flex sheet stays in place nicely on the bed with magnetic sheet.