Inland PLA quality issues

Good Morning,

I have a MicroCenter close by and often print with Inland PLA. I’ve printed large objects with relatively high success. In order to start honing things in I downloaded the benchy and started printing it. Even with the below settings I seem to have too much heat in the print.

Lulzbot Taz 6


  • Layer Height .25mm
  • 3 Top Solid layers
  • 3 Bottom Solid layers
  • 2 Perimeter Shells
    – First Layer Settings
    – 90% Height
    – 125% width
    – 50% speed


  • .5 Nozzle
  • .75 extrusion multiplier (this is too low for a good “floor” on the benchy)
  • .6 Extrusion Width
  • 1.0 Retraction Distance
  • 1200 Retraction speed


  • 20% Rectiliniear
  • 45,-45 angle offset


  • 180c extruder
    -50c bed


  • 0 Layer 1
  • 100 Layer 2
    –Speed Overrides - ( this is the first time I’ve touched this and it didn’t seem to help)
    – Adjust printing speed for layers below 5.0 sec
    – Allow speed reductions down to 5%

  • 4000mm/min default print speed
  • 80% outline underspeed
  • 80% Solid Infill underspeed
  • 80% Support Structure Underspeed
  • 4800mm/min X/Y Axis movement speed
  • 1000mm/min Z Axis movement speed

    Do I need to scale the benchy up? the only relatively good print I have came from printing an ooze shield but there are some perimeter issues which I’m not sure but I think are a result of switching between the object and the ooze shield as the ooze shield has all the same imperfections…

I’ve tried just about everything I’ve read to do via the Simplify3D quality guide before I came here. Perhaps its just a draw back to bargain brand filament? I’ve had a PowerSpec Ultra for a year prior to the Taz and can currently get higher quality prints out of it. I’m certain its just because of all the time I’ve invested in that printer as I’ve only had the Taz a couple of weeks. I’m still a complete novice though and will happily take any advice you can share. Thank you!


Please see attached pics for the exact issues I’m seeing. The “good” benchy is the one with the ooze shield. The one with the supports is the one where I had major issues

I’m also printing one with the above settings at 200% scale which I’ll share.

Thanks again!

Yeah, I read many reviews on Amazon about Inland PLA. For quality printing and inter-layer bonding, the temperature should be around 215-225C. Also, I heard that there is difficulty with increasing the temperature. Is that true?

I have never used inland PLA. But I have read both positive & negative reviews of this filament. If you think it is good for you, then go for it. Otherwise, you can buy filaments of other companies. There are many companies like dr3dfilament, Innofil3D, Pushplastic that offer PLA filaments.

I’m kind of new to the game of 3d printing but it seems to me most of the problems I’ve had where my fault with wrong print settings or bad models from thingiverse.
I’ve used Inland red pla on my Taz 6, with Lulzbot Cura on the polylite profile which worked pretty good. Does require a little adjusting for better quality. Actually my biggest complaint with Inland RED pla is it prints out ORANGE.
It’s not the best quality, but its great for quick prints or something functional. If tuned right its pretty impressive for $14.99/1kg 3mm and locally available.
As I learn to use my printer better, I’m finding most of my issues were not the filament but my understanding of print settings like layer height, z-offsets, perfect 1st layer etc.

These where printed in inland RED PLA @ 205 C

And a timelapse:

I wanted to test the idea of printing a semi transparent skull and then putting a light inside it as seen on YouTube. Anyway since microcenter is close by car I picked up some of their natural pla, to test the idea. Printed the skull fine, and since the natural filament was already on the printer I printed another model that happened to need supports.

I have to say that inland natural pla had the easiest supports to pull away that I’ve ever tried so far. The supports came off without hand tools, easy as can be. But supported overhangs perfect.

I had to slow down support material print speed to 20-25mm/s so it stayed on the print bed. Also layer adhesion on main part wasn’t the best, I’ll try printing hotter. Hope someone else can confirm.