Introduction and questions about Nylon

New to the forum. Just about decided on buying a TAZ6 for personal use, haven’t pulled the trigger. I am designer in automotive related industry. I have many years of experience already with dimension 1200 and makerbot. Also objet polyjet.

I am not a 3D printing tinkerer per say (yet), I’ve just used the machines the way they come, but I’m not afraid to tinker of course…I plan to print functional nylon parts for RC hobby that can take abuse. Am I buying the wrong machine? I know I will need an enclosure at the very least. What other hurdles will I have? What nylon and parameters do you recommend to start? I’m not interested in PLA and only slightly interested in ABS. It’s really about nylon for me.


It occurs to me PC ABS may be a good option. Discuss :slight_smile:

So, I’m not sure how to edit my posts or I wouldn’t keep double posting…

Looking at 910 and bridge, I think they may both be too flexible for my purposes.


ABS should be fine. Its cheap, durable and good for prototyping. I print my parts at .3 layer height to prototype then .1 - .2 for final parts.

PLA is also a good starting filament. You won’t have to deal with the warping of ABS. And you’ll get sharper corners. Its strong also. The only drawback is the low melting temp. So if you leave the part in the car on a hot summer day, good possibility it will deform.

Hi. I’m also interested in this.
Can there be a guide? For beginners or something like that.
It would be great. If there is information, give a link to the forum :wink:
Thanks in advance.

Well, you’re right about those two. They’re my favorite and especially 910. Bridge can be considered somewhat flexible but not the 910. And their layer bonding is crazy! Sometimes I feel that their strength on the z-axis is the same with the others. They will simply not delaminate!! I have printed several functional parts and never looked back. I’m pretty confident that your RC model parts will simply not brake. And usually Nylons are quite light weight.

Bridge prints at 250C and 910 at 255C. As for the bed 60-70C and using Wolfbite Nitro, even on the PEI sheet.

Unfortunately they do require some special treatment. Bridge warps a lot. 910 less but it’s so strong that even for relatively small parts it might lift the thin factory PEI sheet off the glass at the corners of the print. So, an enclosure might become a necessity. Or a new thicker PEI sheet. But that requires a lot of tinkering…

Also, both suffer from moisture absorption from the air. Both absorb moisture from the air quickly like there is no tomorrow. Unless you make sure that the filament is well dryed out in an oven prior to any printing, the result is unacceptable.

Hi, I am the latest addition to this community. My name is Maggie and it is so nice to meet you all.