I’m using Polylite PLA in my TAZ Workhorse and I keep getting filament stuck in the filament guide path (3 times). . The first time this happened it was so bad, I had to put it in hot water to loosen it up to pull it out. I believe it was also this black Polylite Filament. I did not write it down, but I believe it was the same filament as well (black polylite). My questions are:
Does this mean that the filament is not an even 2.85mm?
If no to above, how bad would it be if I drilled the filament guide path a bit larger to prevent this from happening?
I did not find a replacement part on the lulzbot website for this part, so not only do I feel like this guide path serves a path for bad filament, I do not want to destroy it and be out of commission.
I regularly print with PolyLite PLA on my Workhorse.
What temperature are you using? I use 230°C … but mostly that’s because if I use 230°C and a retraction setting of 1mm to 1.5mm to avoid stringing. BUT… if printing at temps too cool, then it can result in jams.
The Workhorse has a hardened steel nozzle (vs. the more common brass nozzle). Steel doesn’t conduct heat as well and you’ll find you need to bump up the temp slightly to compensate (but usually 5° is enough).
Check the hobbled gear and make sure it is clean. If not, a can of compressed air will blow out any chewed up filament stuck in the teeth. If there is filament in the teeth then it wont grip the filament properly and can result in jams.
I’ve never had an issue with PolyMaker’s product quality and certainly you don’t need to drill out anything on the printer.
I’m not positive, but I think the filament guide in your photo is part of the extruder assembly from E3D (it’s an E3D Titan Aerostruder) and not a LulzBot-specific part (which would also explain why you don’t see it in the LulzBot documentation). Visit E3D-Online.com If you contact them you might be able to get a replacement part for it.
Thanks, I will check out E3D for that part. I should have mentioned I’m using a plated copper nozzle. Like you, I had to print at 230C to avoid stringing on my workhorse. Once I switched to a plated copper nozzle, all my stringing was gone!!
When I switched from mainly using ABS to PLA my long prints would get stuck and the problem got worse and worse. The solution was to print up a, I don’t know what to call it, a kind of sleeve or coupler that you stuff with foam rubber and soak with oil. Then the fillament passes through it and it collects dust and applies oil to it. Never had a problem after that. Here is the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:492067
I’m having the same issue with a Lulzbot Mini. There’s a bevel on the bottom of that component that seems like gets filled with filament that melts too early or cools too quick. I have to take the entire thing apart to get the stuck PLA out. I have no idea if it’s the temp/ speed/ tension etc. But, It will extrude fine until go to print. then it barely comes out at all/ doesn’t come out. ???
