Lulzbot Taz 6 Biqu H2 issues

So I’ve been with the help of a redditor I met Making a Biqu H2 mod for my Taz 6 (following this here Lulzbot Taz - Biqu H2 Toolhead Mount by Wrathernaut | Download free STL model | Printables.com ) and I need some help… I’ve been able to get everything running but for whatever reason My printer was bed leveling failing and the M48 probe test failed. I managed to calibraate it for the most part and returned to the issue the next day (today as of posting). I did some trial and error and managed to deduce the issue. I use orcaslicer since I’m more familiar with it as a whole due to using a plethora of Bambu printers at school.

SO the main consensus I arrived at is the Start gcode or OrcaSlicer in general somehow bricks the leveling function of my printer (it’s the standard code made by Wrathernaught, yes you, you actually have been great help even if this is my first post) Everytime I reset my printer to defualts, it returns almost everything except calibration settings for some reason. and them the M48 probe test and bed leveling work fine, but the second I tryand run a print (from orca) it returns to being unable to level or probe test. Is it the start Gcode? I’m more mechanically inclinde than coding so I’ve had issue with trying to make my own o convertt the cura start gcode to orca slicer. any help on the subject would be appreciated.

P.S before it’s mentioned I have resistance tested the entire leveling system and it ranges from 0-1~ ohms throughout all the way to the main board so that is not the issue, same goes for the X-axis, it is leveled and accurate to the nearest mm.

If you’re using the Taz 6 profile in OrcaSlicer, it’s set up only for the stock toolhead, not the H2. The nozzle position is not the same and requires adjusting the offset using the M206 command in the startup GCODE.

If you’re using the universal firmware that has the toolhead selection menu, then you can adjust the nozzle position with M206. Other firmware versions that only cover a single toolhead may not have the command enabled.

I did do that. The nozzle position is not the issue. When I bed level before running the code its fine, but the second i run the gcode it doesnt work. Is it because it thinks the bed leveling is at the wrong location?

I added the M206 gcode and set it to offset at the normal home position is that correct? or should it be at the first washer?, I also adjusted the stepper currents and such like in your printables description.

edit, it’s still not working and is just wipe looping still, with the correct offsets.

Can you post a video (youtube usually works best) of the attempting leveling process? Just seeing it from when it’s moving down to the silver Z minimum button to when it fails is enough.

Where is it hitting the Z minimum button? If it’s not in the center, just hit the power switch when it’s very close to touching so you can take an offset measurement. Here’s a quick diagram to show what the M206 command would be based on which quadrant of the button it’s hitting. Of course, use measured millimeters instead of the placeholder 2mm measurements in the diagram:

Once you send the M206 command in the terminal, you can send the M500 to save it to EEPROM. With it saved there, remove the M206 commands from your startup GCODE.

Be aware that running any old GCODE with an M206 will cause the machine to ignore your corrected M206 setting.

Okay yeah, ill try this here in a few minutes, thank you for helping! Ill also get you a video if it co minutes to fail after these steps.

Also thats the weird thing it doesnt fail on the Z button. That goes fine its the leveling washers, it contacts them like its leveling correctly wipes, and then continues to try again and again and after 2-4 times its goes “normally” from 1 to 2 washers then fails with the "bed Leveling failed, please reset” message

If it fails on washer leveling after it moves from one side of the printer to the other, it’s a sign that the gantry is out of level (tram) with the bed. If one side is more than like 2mm off of the other, it will fail out.

Easy enough to rectify if that’s the issue. Move the nozzle to almost touching the bed on the left side. Power the machine off. Slip a piece of paper under the nozzle and slide it around while manually twisting the threaded rod on the left side until the nozzle just barely touches the paper. Now slowly slide the toolhead to the right side, keeping the paper under the nozzle. If it ever starts dragging the paper, raise the toolhead using the right threaded rod, twisting it by hand. Once you’re on the right side, slide the paper around while lowering the toolhead with the right threaded rod until it just barely touches the paper. Repeat the process going to the left side, then back to the right. At this point it should be within the tolerances for auto bed leveling to work.

I did that… I usually tram level with a locked digital caliper based off the top mounting hardware, I will try to do this though.

That’d be square to the frame, when tram to the bed is the goal.

That makes more sense yeah, maybe thats why ive had leveling issues before (z-offset with the aerostruder) but i worked it out, this helps a lot thank you! (If this is the reason for all these issues into imma laugh)