So I’ve been with the help of a redditor I met Making a Biqu H2 mod for my Taz 6 (following this here Lulzbot Taz - Biqu H2 Toolhead Mount by Wrathernaut | Download free STL model | Printables.com ) and I need some help… I’ve been able to get everything running but for whatever reason My printer was bed leveling failing and the M48 probe test failed. I managed to calibraate it for the most part and returned to the issue the next day (today as of posting). I did some trial and error and managed to deduce the issue. I use orcaslicer since I’m more familiar with it as a whole due to using a plethora of Bambu printers at school.
SO the main consensus I arrived at is the Start gcode or OrcaSlicer in general somehow bricks the leveling function of my printer (it’s the standard code made by Wrathernaught, yes you, you actually have been great help even if this is my first post) Everytime I reset my printer to defualts, it returns almost everything except calibration settings for some reason. and them the M48 probe test and bed leveling work fine, but the second I tryand run a print (from orca) it returns to being unable to level or probe test. Is it the start Gcode? I’m more mechanically inclinde than coding so I’ve had issue with trying to make my own o convertt the cura start gcode to orca slicer. any help on the subject would be appreciated.
P.S before it’s mentioned I have resistance tested the entire leveling system and it ranges from 0-1~ ohms throughout all the way to the main board so that is not the issue, same goes for the X-axis, it is leveled and accurate to the nearest mm.
If you’re using the Taz 6 profile in OrcaSlicer, it’s set up only for the stock toolhead, not the H2. The nozzle position is not the same and requires adjusting the offset using the M206 command in the startup GCODE.
If you’re using the universal firmware that has the toolhead selection menu, then you can adjust the nozzle position with M206. Other firmware versions that only cover a single toolhead may not have the command enabled.
I did do that. The nozzle position is not the issue. When I bed level before running the code its fine, but the second i run the gcode it doesnt work. Is it because it thinks the bed leveling is at the wrong location?
I added the M206 gcode and set it to offset at the normal home position is that correct? or should it be at the first washer?, I also adjusted the stepper currents and such like in your printables description.
edit, it’s still not working and is just wipe looping still, with the correct offsets.
Can you post a video (youtube usually works best) of the attempting leveling process? Just seeing it from when it’s moving down to the silver Z minimum button to when it fails is enough.
Where is it hitting the Z minimum button? If it’s not in the center, just hit the power switch when it’s very close to touching so you can take an offset measurement. Here’s a quick diagram to show what the M206 command would be based on which quadrant of the button it’s hitting. Of course, use measured millimeters instead of the placeholder 2mm measurements in the diagram:
Once you send the M206 command in the terminal, you can send the M500 to save it to EEPROM. With it saved there, remove the M206 commands from your startup GCODE.
Be aware that running any old GCODE with an M206 will cause the machine to ignore your corrected M206 setting.
Okay yeah, ill try this here in a few minutes, thank you for helping! Ill also get you a video if it co minutes to fail after these steps.
Also thats the weird thing it doesnt fail on the Z button. That goes fine its the leveling washers, it contacts them like its leveling correctly wipes, and then continues to try again and again and after 2-4 times its goes “normally” from 1 to 2 washers then fails with the "bed Leveling failed, please reset” message
If it fails on washer leveling after it moves from one side of the printer to the other, it’s a sign that the gantry is out of level (tram) with the bed. If one side is more than like 2mm off of the other, it will fail out.
Easy enough to rectify if that’s the issue. Move the nozzle to almost touching the bed on the left side. Power the machine off. Slip a piece of paper under the nozzle and slide it around while manually twisting the threaded rod on the left side until the nozzle just barely touches the paper. Now slowly slide the toolhead to the right side, keeping the paper under the nozzle. If it ever starts dragging the paper, raise the toolhead using the right threaded rod, twisting it by hand. Once you’re on the right side, slide the paper around while lowering the toolhead with the right threaded rod until it just barely touches the paper. Repeat the process going to the left side, then back to the right. At this point it should be within the tolerances for auto bed leveling to work.
I did that… I usually tram level with a locked digital caliper based off the top mounting hardware, I will try to do this though.
That’d be square to the frame, when tram to the bed is the goal.
That makes more sense yeah, maybe thats why ive had leveling issues before (z-offset with the aerostruder) but i worked it out, this helps a lot thank you! (If this is the reason for all these issues into imma laugh)
Sorry for a mulit month late reply I got extremely busy.
Getting back to trying getting this system running,
what all would I need to change in the Start gcode on orca slicer to get it functioning properly?
So far i’ve gotten down that from it’s homing (0,0,0) position before I call bed leveling or wiping I set it to where the wiping start position is, based on the nozzles position.
but for like changing filaments or temperatures, would the slicer do that for me or is there special stuff I have to do there?
Honestly any info you could give me coding wise would be wonderful, I’m very good mechanically and math wise but when it comes to coding I’m still basic level.
Also is there an upper limit to tuning these printers? I know heat will become an issue the faster you run the motors, I’m not looking for super fast just faster than the pace it crawls at stock. and would I need to change tuning in the printer or slicer settings?
You just set the steps/mm, get the PID autotune done, and get your home position corrected.
There’s nothing you need to change in the slicer. The slicer specifies the amount to extrude, and the printer does calculations for how many degrees of movement of the motor that equates to. Similarly for temperature.
You can set increased max feedrates through gcode commands. The lighter toolhead should let you go faster in the X direction, but the Y axis is still going to be a limiting factor. The Y axis could be holding a lot of weight with a print on it, plus the heavy bed itself.
did a little troubleshooting it may have been an accidental M206 imput that cuased that issue, procceeding to running custom Gcode from orcaslicer
- Okay I don’t know what the issue is at all I can’t diagnose this, it hits every probe point, wipes correctly and homes correctly through orcaslicer but it jsut doesn’t detect the point
and it’s not a contact issue because it detects it after I reset the firmware because whataver orcaslicer does makes ever subsequent probe fail
Probably something in the startup gcode, there’s two spots that lulzbot inserts M206 in there.
already checked that, one is commented out, and the other i had removed and left the commented section to replace if needed
Slice a very small, simple object and post the generated GCODE here, that might help see what’s happening that’s different with homing on the screen vs. homing as part of a print.
will do, I’ll have to do it when i’m home, would like a milimeter sheet be fine like a 4x4x1mm?
I’ll also send over my current startup gcode
Like 1mm x 1mm x .25mm would be fine. I just want to see the generated GCODE vs what Cura has as the startup GCODE with its placeholder variables.
Output from M503 before the attempted print would also be good.
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quick question, could it be the firmware? it may be having issues with the Universal firmware, because orcaslicer worked fine with the aerostruder and it’s firmware iirc, so could it be the universal firmware throwing a fit? since i reset to default firmware (what i have saved on memory) and then it’s fine
Sorry if I come off uneducated, I’m still working on my 3d printer knowledge, this coding part has been the real wall to my project being complete
