Can a genuine e3d nozzle that is compatible with the mini2 tool head be used (eg e3d nozzle x) in this printer?
It will fit. The only thing I have not tested is if the special coating on the Nozzle X acts as an insulator (e.g. will the coating prevent the bed-leveling system from working correctly?). Uncoated metal nozzles will certainly work. Your Mini 2 uses a brass nozzle (I think). The Workhorse and Pro models use hardened steel (which doesn’t conduct heat as efficiently and means they need to run at hotter temps when extruding … but also means they can handle abrasive filaments without wearing away the internals of the nozzle. E.g. printing glow-in-the-dark filaments are known for doing this to brass nozzles.)
I ordered a Nozzle X to test it. I’ll use an ohm-meter to make sure the coating doesn’t create a problem.
BTW, it would need to be the “v6” version of the Nozzle X (the heat-block on your Titan Aerostruder is compatible with the E3D v6 heater block).
If you’ve never changed a nozzle before, there are a few tricks to know.
Here’s a video that walks through the steps (and precautions):
Note that he’s using an IT-Works 3D head compatible with the printer… but it uses the very same v6 heater block that your head works … so the instructions are still the same.
It’s IMPORTANT to make sure that the nozzle doesn’t “bottom out” on the heater block.
In extruder design, the heat-brake threads down into the heat-block from above… while the nozzle threads up into the heat-block from below. The end of the heat-break and nozzle must make solid contact int the middle to form a seal. If they do not seal, then filament will leak through the gap, squeeze between the threads, and start oozing out of the heat brake (the gap between the hot-end and cold-end of the extruder). This has happened to me … more than once. That leaked material will then act as an insulator and you’ll have two problems… the bed-leveling performance will be poor (because it wont get good continuity to know when the nozzle touches the bed leveling washers) and goo will occasionally drip on your parts.
So make sure that the nozzle doesn’t “bottom out” on the heat-block (there should be a tiny gap) once the nozzle is tight. That confirms that what is preventing the nozzle from going in further is the heat-brake and not the heat-block itself. (This means you have sealed the gap and wont get leaks.)
Your entire print-head is held in place by 1 wiring harness and 3 screws (well… there’s also the cosmetic cover which is held in place by 3 screws). So it’s pretty easy to swap heads if you don’t want to fuss with swapping the nozzles.
Thank you, that was a very thorough and thought out reply. I look forward to the result of your test with the coated nozzle.
I just checked with some folks on the LulzBot Facebook group … a few of them have the Nozzle X and said they have no issues with bed-level and, if anything, it works better because the nozzle is sooo much easier to wipe clean.
I’ll post an update when my nozzles arrive.
This is great news. Sounds like the ease of cleaning is reason enough. Thanks again and looking forward to the results of your test.