Newbie with workhorse, silk pla and other issues

Hi everyone, I’m having some issues with printing 3D FUEL SILK PLA. I’m sorry if there is another thread on this, but I tried searching, and maybe I wasn’t asking correctly, but I couldn’t find anything I was looking for. First, I am new to 3D printing, and I have had some success with decent prints here and there, but I cannot get consistent prints when switching files, but really have trouble figuring out settings for new filament. I started with 3dFuel pro pla the lulzbot green, and I finally got it to print well enough, but I am now trying their silk pla the bi-color red and orange. I have tried following the recommendations on the box and googled and tried so many different settings it would take too long to type it out, but the basics are I tried everything from no custom settings to adjusting temp on nozzle and bed up and down 5 deg at a time to messing with layer height and print speed. Specifically, it’s the benchy print I am having issues with. Finally, I got it to print for several layers well but then it just stops extruding at Z2.3 height almost every time. I am using the same model I used on the green PLA, which worked alright, so I don’t think it’s the model, but I admit I’m new at this, so I really have no idea. Just to try something different I printed the Octogear test print on the lulzbot file that came with my printer setup. I am using the Workhorse, and I have some pics I hope help, Thanks in advance!
3df 1
failed print1
failed print2

What toolhead and nozzle? I have had good success with the M175v2 toolhead with the .5mm nozzle using 1.75mm silk PLA at 215c. .2mm layer height, and no other changes to profiles for 3D fuel Pro PLA.

Silk has a higher viscosity, but that usually only affects the first layer. Where your failure is happening looks like where heat creep starts to set in. 2.85mm filament will amplify the tendency for heat creep.

Is it stripping the filament, or falling in another way?

Tensioning more (counter-clockwise rotation of the tensioning knob) might help, as well reducing the retraction amount.

Thanks for the reply Wrathernaut!
I’m not sure of the hardware, it’s whatever came with the printer when I bought it. It is a .5 coated brass nozzle and I’m using 1.75 diameter filament. My layer height has been .25 and I went yup to .4 at one point to experiment. I’ve tried stock settings with just the temp adjusted per the 3D fuel recommendation on the box. I’ve messed wotht the speed from 60 to 70 (the box said 60-100mm/s I believe) and I’ve gone down to 50. I either get under extruding or it’s stops printing around the Z2.5 ish height. I know it’s operator error I’m just lost on the troubleshooting. I had Simon issues with pro pla copper color. The green printed pretty much whatever I wanted but copper will not print to save my life and I’m lost as to where I’m supposed to start looking for trouble. Thanks again.

The workhorse had several heads available, take a picture and it’ll be ready to identify.

If it’s a 2.85mm toolhead with 1.75mm silk PLA, that’s definitely a recipe for failure.

Heres the toolhead, I swear I read somewhere that I could use 1.75, and I’ve had relatively decent results on other prints. The bi color silk and the pro pla copper have given me nothing but trouble. thanks for the help!
tool head 1
tool head 2
tool head 3

I could be wrong but I thought only the Bondtech feed hot ends used 1.75mm and all the E3D Aero tool heads were 2.85mm

You “can” use 1.75mm filament with the titan aero-based extruder like you have, but it works terribly. There’s too much room for the filament to expand or deflect, so throwing any retractions into the mix leads to bad things, as like what you’ve experienced.

You’re basically trying to do a ton of hard things for the 2.85mm aerostruder to do: PLA, Silk, and hardest of all - 1.75mm filament. If it was 1.75mm PETG or ABS alone? Probably doable, but for all the work you’re going to do to try and get this to work… just get a 1.75mm extruder, or swap out the parts to convert the aerostruder to 1.75mm (filament guide, heatbreak, nozzle and heatsink).

On a budget, I’d say just do a Biqu H2 V2S Revo.

This is probably the tool head I’d go for if I didn’t already have an M175.

That’s a good choice

I couldn’t agree more. I still find the M175v2 to be overall better if you’re never going to change nozzles, but I think that’s largely due to the excellent quality and coating on the Slice Engineering Bridgemaster nozzle that comes on it vs. the brass Revo nozzles. I haven’t tried the Obxidian nozzles from e3d yet.

Wow thanks for all the replies! I bought the printer over a year ago but due to some unfortunate circumstances I couldn’t dig in an really start playing with it till a couple months ago, so I cannot remember why I went with the 1.75 except that I swear reading somewhere that I could use it. This was all really helpful, I really appreciate it. My only other question is if I start using 2.85 filament would that in theory solve the issues I have been having barring any hardware problems or odd settings? Thanks again everyone!

Yes, 2.85mm should be immensely easier with the toolhead you have. But, 2.85 for consumer printing is on the way out. I only buy it for flexible filament or really good deals on ABS or PLA.

If you’ll be using it long term, consider spending now on a 1.75mm toolhead instead of 2.85mm filament.

Unfortunately, there isn’t a 1.75mm dual extruder for the TAZ 6. If there was, I could abandon 2.85mm filament completely.

This is probably the best looking 1.75mm dual I’ve seen:

Might be this one: Thing files for BMG-X2-M With Mosquito Hotends Luzbot Taz 6 by Getprints - Thingiverse

and there is marlin configs to look at GitHub - jaylenyoung/TAZ-6-Dual-Mosquito: Repository Holding files regarding my Lulzbot TAZ6 upgrade to Dual Extrusion Slice Engineering Mosquito Hotends.

First link doesn’t work for me.

I guess I should have qualified my statement… “there isn’t a commercially available 1.75mm dual extruder”. I don’t mind doing minor modifications but I’m not quite ready to custom build my own.

I think the page is down, you can find it on, or I used the cached google link (not sure if this will work, but: TAZ 6 Upgraded with Bondtech Dual Extruder and Slice Engineering Mosquito Hotends – Jaylen Young (

Yes, nothing commercially available, but you can slap 1.75mm hexagon hot ends in the dual v3.1 and I think you may be able to slide some 1.75mm bowden tubing through it to reach the heatbreak (although this wouldn’t be necessary for PLA or other rigid filament) and you’re done.

Thanks for all the great advice. I just got my roll of 2.85 today, I decided to give that a shot first before dropping the money on a toolhead. I bought Polymaker Polyterra Fossil Grey PLA. I couldn’t find presets in Cura so I just used the PolyLite PLA settings since they matched closely to what the spool has written on it. Im printing another benchy since that’s whats been kicking my butt. I’ll post post a pic when its done, so far its passed the Z mark that had been failing repeatedly and looks pretty good. Thanks again!!

Here it is! Printed no problem first time. I obviously have a lot to learn and troubleshoot the stringy’s and poor print quality but at least it printed. Thanks again everyone!
grey benchy

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look i had a similar problem many times try the noclogger. com at 230c for PLA & 270C for ABS & ASA also if their late they could be busy any questions include the order number

note I do not make a cent off this, the reason why I recommend them is that they are better than cleaning filament
also, try regular PLA be careful with abrasive filaments