PETG and the Taz5, a couple tips I've learned

I’m putting this down as it may help others. I am really loving how PETG prints, and the warp-free large parts are a godsend.

I’m running 240C hot end and 90C bed with gluestick.

At first I was getting a lot of failure with what looked like the filament jamming below the pinch roller. What I found is that unlike ABS, you need minimal force on the pinch roller for the PETG or it can create a problem. I would typically have anything more than an hour print fail, and when I removed the filament, it had bunched up below the pinch roller. What I found was a post on another wade extruder printer’s forum is to only tighten the pinch roller until it extrudes clean. On ABS, I always crank the thing down as I was having problems of slipping. I use the recommendation of how much space between the thumbscrew and pinch roller lever. When I started keeping the pinch roller just tightened enough to extrude, my problems all went away.

As for strings, PETG can be a little extra stringy, but make sure you calibrate your esteps. That helped tremendously. I still get the odd hair now and again, but overextruding PETG is NOT forgiving. I have done 48hr prints in PETG now and get great results. So much so as I may not buy ABS again.

I also love PETG, so easy to print with! I just do a bed of 60C with no glue stick and have had no problems with it sticking to my PEI bed.

Could you elaborate on what you mean about calibrating your esteps, I also occasionally get some stringing on difficult prints. My only complaint would be bridging with PETG, any tips for that? I can’t bridge as well with PETG as I can with ABS or PLA.

I have been using this PETG: Cheap and works great!

I don’t know if Cura has Retraction, but try checking it and set at 1.20 - 1.50. It helps with the strings.

I am a relative newbie, but I have been using PETG on my mini, and I love it. Just slightly more expensive than HIPS but does excellent and strong prints.

The only problem I’ve had with it is it can stick TOO WELL; I broke a build plate by printing a large flat part without putting it on a bridge. Live and learn.

Here’s the extruder calibration guide
Web search for: lulzbot extruder calibration

I used to keep the plate at 110, for PETG since dropping the temp down to 90 prints come off a lot easier. I think you could take it down to 80 C and still be ok, but my shop is cool about 18 C. so I leave the HBP little warm.

I’ve been using 90, but I’ll try it at 80 and see what happens, thanx.

There is one thing to add: PETG doesn’t likes a fan. I printed my first test cube with same cooling settings as for PLA, and it separated into single layers as soon as I tried to remove it from the bed. Without fan, everything is OK.

I had originally whined about PETG being super-stringy but I decided to give it another shot. My first batch of PETG was clear, the second spool I bought is opaque white, both Esun. I’m having excellent results with the white PETG – no stinginess, no boogers. I am printing in my mostly unheated garage (there is a space heater in here keeping things above freezing at night) and it’s probably in the low 40s in here at night and upper 40s in the day. Anyway, I don’t have enough filament experience to extrapolate, but maybe opaque PETG is easier to use.

0.4mm nozzle
245 C nozzle temp
75 C bed temp
Measured my filament diameter and extrude at 95%
No fans because of the low ambient temperature.

I’m using translucend REAL filament from reprapworld, no problems with stringing (also 0,4 nozzle, 240° extruder and 80° bed). I also just tested it’s behavior in a dishwasher - no problems :slight_smile: The nice thing on this filament - it’s food safe. There will be some nice cookie-cutters for christmas :laughing:

There are no settings in CURA for PETG from Esun. Does anyone have a profile setting for Cura I can download?