Printer Head Size in Cura

I’m telling you you know not of what you speak. Printer head size and hot end are NOT the same thing.

They are NOT the measurements I need.

There are several people who have posted responses relevant to the question - which was NOT worded incorrectly.

Have a read through of some of the RELEVANT responses about PRINTER HEAD SIZE IN CURA.

Again, this is different from hot end dimensions.

Do research, stop trying to argue me until you understand.

Ok,
I guess there are 2 ways to go about this, It appears Nopick has measured Gantry height to where the plastic wraps around the extruder mount. This seems fine if you have very short parts, but it’s pretty limited.

I would say the better way to do this is to measure to the lower of the two horizontal bars for the Y axis and use the entire extruder for the rest of the measurements. This will greatly reduce usable bed space and make it so you have to space parts out much farther apart, but you gain a massive amount of print height.

Is that what you did geburges?

I don’t think it matters. Lulzbot didn’t include any measurements in their customized profile for the TAZ 5. Its all zero. Page 15 of the owners manualstates:
“It is important to select the correct printer, as Cura uses custom profiles and machines settings based upon which printer you are running.”

They may not have expected anyone to use the print one object at a time feature. That would be the only time the toolhead might interfere with a project. In any other case, the toolhead should never come into play because the tapered nozzle will always be the lowest part of the toolhead… and should be level with the current layer height.


@wmgeorge64 - not you. :slight_smile:

Perhaps a more Intelligent question and one that got the response the OP wanted would have gone like this…

" Hi I am new here and can’t find the answer I need with a Search. Want I want to do is print multiple items on the TAZ 5 bed and need the dimensions to place on this (insert Screen capture here), in Cura xx.x could someone please help me out? Thank you in Advance"

Posting a question with the incorrect terminology and then insulting the people who answer is bad manners.

And ditto what he said: They may not have expected anyone to use the print one object at a time feature. That would be the only time the toolhead might interfere with a project. In any other case, the toolhead should never come into play because the tapered nozzle will always be the lowest part of the toolhead… and should be level with the current layer height.

I have taken the fan duct into account because I don’t know what logic the slicer will use for the print order. If it always prints parts left to right, front to back, you can probably get away with taller parts.

Are you still trying to tell me I’m using incorrect terminology when I posted the list of settings AND AN IMAGE directly from cura?

If they didn’t want people to use it, why didn’t they delete the fields? Why is it active and set up for the mini?

Quit being a know it all with your 6 weeks mini experience and get outta my thread. There’s people here who know what’s going on and want to finally have a working set of numbers for this setting.

It’s been several years and has never been discussed. So sit back and learn something or get out.

EVERYBODY,

Please take a chill pill and try to get back in the spirit of the season. (You know: Peace on Earth, goodwill to [all] men [and women].)

chriscalandro,

Their seems to be a trade off between between the X/Y and Z portions of the keep out zone. nopick and I seem to have gone with the smaller X/Y box which means that we have to use the fan duct Z as the gantry height. If you include the fan duct in the X/Y box you should be able to use the bottom of the Y axis rods as the gantry height. Please try it and let us know your settings and results.

FYI for those that do not use the sequential print option: I use that option frequently because it allows me better temperature control per printed object and reduces stringing with filaments like ninjaflex where I turn off retraction.

I believe that it also reduces print time slightly since the print head isn’t having to spend so much time traveling part to part. I have not bothered actually measuring print times to verify this hypothesis.

Print time is better, but only marginally. Print quality is significantly better.

I got no collisions and had no issues with the smaller measured settings.

As long as it seems there are no official measurements I’m going to go ahead and try to measure and use the entire print head.

Less available space, taller prints.

So it appears that skirts are not included in the spacing calculation. closely spaced parts and skirts will cause collisions…