Question about the TAZ 5 Hexagon hot end V2

Question 1: Where can I find the wire crimping pins and plastic housing for connecting the hot end, the fans and the extruder motor to the Rambo card. I have some 4 pin and 2 pin connectors. I have looked on Digi-Key, but I don’t know the part numbers and there are a lot of parts. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I did find the male pin on digi-key with a part number of 0016020108, but I don’t know what the part number for the female pin is.

Question 2: I am having some problems with filament not extruding.
What is the voltage I should be looking for when I am heating up the hexagon hot end, I am seeing around 24V when I check the heater connection.
Should I see voltage when I check the 100k Semiteck GT2 Thermistor connection during heating

Question 3: I have a digital Thermometer 6802II, when I touch the heating block on the hexagon hot end I see a reading of about 200-220, with the setting in Cura at 204 c. The display panel on the TAZ 5 show it heating at 240. Should I be worried about this or is it different because of where the Thermistor is locate and where I’m trying to take my reading.

When the TAZ is powered down and I check the thermistor for ohms, I see about 102 to 105k
When I check the 24v 30 heater cartridge for ohms I see around 19 (no k just 19)

Question 4: Where do I find the configuration.h file, I think it should be in a cura folder on my computer somewhere, but I can’t find it.

Question 5: How to I get PETG filament out of my TAZ 5 Hexagon Hot end. I can heat the hot end up to 240 - 250 according to the screen display on my TAZ 5, but I still can’t get the filament to pull out or push thru. I think the filament is stuck in the tube that goes into the heating block or in the heat sink area. I have loosen the roller so it does not pinch the filament against the hobble bolt and I have removed the nozzle, but if still does not pull out. Do I need to torch the hot end or Is there something that will dissolve the PETG like acetone does to ABS

  1. having just spent a lot of time looking into this…
    Lulzbot Taz Tool Head Wire Harness Connector Part Numbers
  • male pin: digikey part num 0016020108
  • female pin: digikey part num 0016020097
  • housing: molex part number 22552161
  1. I am not an expert but TAZ systems are generally 24V so that should be correct. Anything you use must have an adapter to 24V or be 24V compatible. Not sure if you have to make modifications to the thermistor to adapt that

  2. again, not an expert, but it should not be heating that much. I would be cautious, although it could just be that there is an issue with connecting it directly to 24V and it is misreading. There is a guide somewhere for TAZ and thermistors and if I find it again I’ll share it here

fyi 19ohms is correct for a 24v 30w heater cartridge

  • 12v/30w: 5-6 ohms

  • 24v/30w: 19-24 ohms

  • 12v/40w: 3-4 ohms

  • 24v/40w: 9-12 ohms

  1. I think that should be available somewhere on TAZ’s website, I’ll take a peek later as I need to find it myself

  2. You will need to pull it out somehow, I’m not aware of anything that will dissolve PETG safely. You may need to disassemble the whole extruder.

While I am new to posting here, I’ve been reading quite a lot on here the last month. Be sure to search the forums for any questions you have as I have found there to be quite a few answers here already.

Hope this helps!

Manedwolf, Thanks for all the information, I really appreciate it. There is so much good stuff on this forum, but it can sometimes be hard to find exactly what you are looking for.

In regards to question 4 about a configuration.h file, are you looking to modify your firmware? If so we have a respository on gitlab LulzBot 3D / Marlin · GitLab . Firmware is shipped with cura in a compiled form either .hex or .bin .

I am looking for where the configuration.h file is located. Which folder on my windows PC is this file located. I’m looking to see what the configuration.h file has for the thermister type. I thought the configuration.h file was a separate file that you look at using notepad. If it is compiled how do you change it and recompile it.

If you follow the link to the gitlab repository for Lulzbot modified Marlin you can browse and see the configuration for your specific firmware version. If you wish to make changes you will have to recompile yourself.

On question number 2 - You can not really read the voltage on the heater cartridge as it is a P.W.M. output - meaning it is pulsing between 0V and 24 volts.

On number 3 you are reading the colder outside temperature of the heating block. so you will read a lower temp there.The resistor readings are the proper values that you should see.

On number 4 unless you are changing the standard parts used in the hot-end or need to replace the type of thermistor used you really do not need to recompile the firmware for the printer, which is the only reason you need to have the marlin firmware files which contains the configuration.h them

As for number five, that usually is a result of your cold end cooling fan not working correctly, thus letting the upper part of the hot end assembly to get warm enough that the filament has softened and expanded into spaces it normally does not get into. Which causes it to basically LOCK into the barrel of the cold end of the assembly.

On a side note: do not turn off the printer until the hot end has cooled below 140C or the heat from the hot end will creep up into the cold end and possibly cause filament jams!