Does anybody have a reliable FFF profile for Simplify3D for a TAZ5 0.5mm? I have never been able to get it print out anything usable. Most prints end up as a blob of strings or it just internally collapses.
I’ve tried to tweak the build in TAZ 5 0.35mm profile that comes with Simplify3D, but if you just change the nozzle to 0.5mm it prints a series of very thin traces for the bottom layer that are many mils removed from each other and don’t have any chance whatsoever in sticking to the bed. I’ve upped all of the settings that I can see Cura does (first layer width to 125%, some speed settings etc.), but everything is so different between the two that it’s hard to match.
Cura on the other hand is a rock - my printer has been busy 90% of the day since I got it, mostly driven by Cura. And Cura has not messed up a single print to date. So I know my printer setup is good.
My prints with a 0.35mm nozzle were a bit iffy with S3D until I changed all extrusion widths to 100%, so maybe give that a go and see what happens. Otherwise share some pictures and I’m sure people will be able to help you.
Anyone have a FFF settings for ABS ? because i tried to print with the default 0.35mm setting in high and the print quality is pretty bad ?
I’m a little bit noob in settings and in simplify 3D.
This has been my only frustration so far with the TAZ - the default profiles in Simplify3D are atrocious. I’d really like to be using it, since I love the way it does supports and I have been able to print Ninjaflex without a flexy extruder using its advanced features.
I did find the extrusion multipliers need changing, but I haven’t found what’s causing the zits and zippers yet. I tried adding some coasting and wipe, but it still looks pretty bad. Sharing profiles is good to do (thanks), but it would be nice to have an overall understanding of what settings need changing in the default profiles. Any other input?
Load an exported default FFF profile and one of these modified profiles in Notepad++. Use the compare tool to view the differences. It will show you exactly what has been changed.
To get rid of the zits (not sure of what zippers are), is really just slowing the print speed down.
The outline speed of 2500mm/s seems to work well for ABS. You’ll need to calculate the underspeed percentage to achieve that… so if printing default speed of 5400mm/s use 46%, and 4200mm/s would be 60%. The default print speed also comes in play for solid infills and inside perimeters, lowering will provide the most desirable finishes. Just need the patience for the longer print durations.
EDIT:
I attached the following FFF to a different thread, but thought I’d provide here also. It capitalizes on the flexibility of the “Autoconfigure Quality/Material” dropdowns for varying print situation with the .5mm and ABS (I didn’t touch the profiles for PLA, Nylon…)
Here are the basic changes to the FFF:
For color, the extrusion multiplier is changed
For speed, maintain an outline underspeed of 2500 for default speeds of 4200, 4800 and 5400
Consistent cooling parameters at set heights, which is optimal for my print environment for ABS… YMMV.
Supports are modifed to be very sparse with a dense upper and lower boundary for easy removal
Brim/Skirt is modified also for my print environment.
Basic premise behind the various profiles:
Achieve a consistent outer shell (top/bottom layers and perimeter)
Vary heat bed with an initial of 110C to about 3mm, then 100C and eventually to 90C
Increased overlap from default to 35%, which also affected a decrease in the extrusion multiplier
Note check, the Z-offset GCode… I may have a default for my printer of .2 which may be too close for other printers. It may make your ABS prints stick too well to the PEI. I like to lightly coat the print area with lithium grease, and wipe off every so often. This lets me print closer to the bed, creating a smooth bottom to the projects… and still letting my remove.
Sorry if this is a bit over the top… but I thought I’d share what I’ve experimented with in hopes to spark other suggestions. TAZ5-N5_20151219_00.txt (43.9 KB)
Here is my working 5.0mm TAZ5 Simplify 3D settings.
These settings should work for the 5.0mm head and a TAZ5 Lulzbot printer. DOWNLOAD SETTINGS HERE: NullBlox - Lulzbot TAZ5 3.00mm.fff.zip (2.78 KB)
Enjoy! And please let me know your results.
Here are my results with those settings and 3.00mm ABS filament from HATCHBOX.
If you think HATCHBOX is not good I have only had this Printed for under a Month and have no knowledge of 3D Printing,
aside from this past Month. So I believe that the settings have a lot do do with even some quality test.
Im very happy with my Lulzbot purchase but the BLACK ABS Lulzbot Filament I purchased with my printer was no jokes
just bad product. All prints with my black Lulbot brand ABS have pretty much not bound amongst other complications.
I assumed this was my lack of skills on 3D printing but have came to the conclusion that there just are Bad filaments and some time you get a bad roll. I may try Lulbot filament again later on but this HATCHBOX is good on price and quality with the right settings. At least to my ignorant knowledge of this.
I do notice that the Head that feeds the filament seams to not be gapped correct on the 3 Lulzbots I have used.
This has tended to bind all my ColorFab transparent green from pushing though. Each time it trys to push its gets just fat enough from heat and retraction to cause an catch on the metal straw part of the head to the plastic base. This is a issue I think needs fixing tbh, It just hard to push, Ive had 3 Lulbots from Microcenter thinking this was My doing but realized that is a issue by default. An I get that some filament run through it fine, but all filaments are a hard push to feed for the 1st time, unless you kinda sharpen the end a small, small amount. An I can say this is will all 3 as by factory default.
An yes Ive taken it apart at this point to check clogs etc. Its not that at all nore in the part that clogs.
