Spare parts question...

Hi, all. I recently purchased my first 3d printer, a Taz 6, and have been experimenting with it a little.

I did want to ask the regulars, what (non-3D printed) spare parts should I have on hand to minimize downtime?

The second question is in regards to the gcode for the 3d printed parts on the SD card, what material are they printed from? I assume its either the nGen or PLA due to the temperature but wanted to make sure. And which parts from this collection should I have on hand?

Thanks.

Sennith

  1. Spare parts to have on hand in order of likelyhood of failure
    a. Small grain of rice fuses for the rambo board ( failure due to electrical pulse from moving the bed or x carriage by hand too quickly)
    b. A thermistor for the hotend (sometimes they just break, but usually force or electricity related)
    C. a heater core for the hotend (these rarely fail but are only $3.)
    D. A nozzle (0.5mm, hexagon or E3Dv6 nozzles are compatable here, general wear )
    E. the 15 amp automotive blade style fuse for the bed (ive never actually seen one fail personally)
    F. a replacement PEI sheet (PEI is a long term consumable, it will tend to lift over time and eventually need to be re-bedded and it is possible to tear it)
    G. It is possible but unlikely to crack the bed glass.
    H. The Igus 12mm and 10mm bearings will wear over time, but you can ignore them for at least a year or two under even heavy loads.
    I. a spare belt (fraying rather than snapping is more likely)
    J. 608zz bearings (or 6082RS for the rubber sealed ones) The idler arm bearing will tend to over time clog up even with the sealed ones, and the idler bearings on the X and Y axis will fail after 3-4 years of heavy use.
    K. a spare rambo board is expensive, but having a spare will minimize downtime
    L. spare 30mm 5v fan and spare 24v 40mm fan for the hotend.
    A spare hexagon hotend to harvest parts from isn’t a bad idea.

  2. The parts on the SD card (which you can also find those and newer versions on download.lulzbot.com ) are mostly printed out of ABS plastic except for the squishy bed corners, green Z nut rings and the squishy feet which are printed out of Ninjaflex, or TPU (Thermoplastic Urathene) The most likely failure parts in order are:
    a. Idler arm ( possible snap failure)
    B. Small gear (wear over time)
    C. Large Gear (wear over time)
    D. the extruder body itself (wear over time, possible idler arm mount snap)
    Of those parts the only one I have seen fail early is the idler arm. The newer “beefy” idler arm and latch prevents that.

ABS can be glued to full strength (chemical, not mechanical bond) so i keep a bottle of plastruct plastic weld on hand (ABS formula). You also may want to grab some M3 and M5 heat set inserts and the M3 heat set insertion tip from mcmaster carr (which works ont he M5’s as well) to rebuild all parts.

The assembly guide documentation is here if you like: https://ohai.lulzbot.com/group/taz-6/

Itworks3d.com is a good source of inexpensive used parts for spares, Most of the other peices can be found in the Lulzbot store as well.

Thanks.

In regards to the rice fuses for the rambo, would disconnecting the electrical contacts prior to moving the bed help? Or would that not be advisable?

Disconnecting the motors would eliminate that issue. It’s also relatively safe if you do have to move it just move it slowly so the electrical pulse is low enough it won’t strain the fuse. Apparently there is also a type of one way diode that might be useful to put in line called a “flyback diode” but I haven’t figured out how or where to go about getting the right ones to try that.