Taz 2 evolved to 4

Can you guys send me in the right direction as to where I can purchase all the parts to upgrade my taz 2 into a taz 4 (mostly heated bed upgrade) as well as a bill of materials (parts to print/STL files to download via links) for the various changes made to the Z-axis hysteria. I want to do it all and make sure i’m not missing anything. I realize i cant upgrade my rambo holster, but that’s ok.

Thanks a lot,

Parts to make a Taz 3 into a Taz 4 (should be applicable for a Taz 2):

Parts to buy from Mitsumi:
Two Leadscrews - Misumi Part # MTSBRK12-420-F7-R8-T9-Q8-S20-E5-FE0-FW7-FY1
Two Lead Screw Nuts - Misumi Part # MTSRR12
Two Couplers - Misumi Part # GSASL16-5-5
Four 608zz Bearings - Two are for the upper bearings, Two for lower bearings.

Printed parts (required):

Printed parts (optional frame enhancements)

The LCD modules are available in the lulzbot store if the 2 didn’t have them. I can’t rememeber if it did or not. The 24v electronics you are on your own for.

Thank you so much! this saves me a lot of time searching and questioning!

How come lulzbot does not sell a 24V Replacement bed? Where would I go about finding one potentially, or can I just “replace” the power supply to my current bed?

You’re welcome!

I dunno why they don’t sell those, they probably don’t have excess beyond what they need for their own production at this point, but thats a guess.

Another thread suggests CPSX16-5-5 is a suitable replacement for GSASL16-5-5 but was not confirmed. Can you confirm that CPX16-5-5 couplers will work in place of the GSASL16-5-5?

Here are some links to purchase on Misumi for anybody else asking the same question as I am:
http://us.misumi-ec.com/(USA site not the international one >.<)
Lead Screws: http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300083240/?ProductCode=MTSBRK12-420-F7-R8-T9-Q8-S20-E5-FE0-FW7-FY1
Lead Screw Nuts:http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300081660/?ProductCode=MTSRR12
The GSASL16-5-5 are discontinued on Misumi but here is its brother?
Couplings: http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/110300126460/?ProductCode=CPSX16-5-5

They should work fine. A 16-5-5 coupler is pretty much standard. I’ve only tried the other ones personally, but they shouldn’t be a problem.

Thanks for posting the question and thanks to the folks who replied! Sort of on the same topic, is there a list somewhere of the changes between the various TAZ releases? Just picked up a TAZ3, I’ve been searching for all the differences but this was really the first post I was able to find that listed some of the specific changes :slight_smile:

Here’s A changelist for TAZ 3 > 4: http://devel.lulzbot.com/TAZ/Guava/production_docs/change_list_guava.odt The biggest change from your TAZ 3 to the current 4 is the Z axis drive system.

Thanks Orias :slight_smile:

I’m ordering some cheap sfu1204 ballscrews to try and adapt them to the TAZ3. One question though. Normally ballscrews are fixed at one end with two angular contact bearings. That’s a bit overkill in this case, looking at the pictures, are the taz4 leadscrews fixed to the lower bearing at all? Looks like it just goes through a 608zz bearing, so what’s keeping it in place axially?

the taz 4 fram top and bottom pieces sandwich both ends of the leadscrew. it’s not a full on fixed / floating design, but it does improve the accuracy over threaded rod considerably. the rod is already exposed to heat somewhat, and the heating is going to be somewhat consistant, so for what it is doing on that axis, not having a fixed point bearing at the coupler end and a floating beairng at the other end isn’t really going to have a negitive effect on operations. It would be pretty easy to modify that to a fixed floating setup if you had a ballscrew that has the threads for the retention nut, but it would really be overkill in this instance. I’d look at putting a full on Y rail on the chassis before I worried about altering the Z axis further. Though I might put a linear rail in there in place of the rod someday.

What additional screws, nuts/washers, heat set gold things, etc.? will I need if I mostly re-use the ones n my TAZ 2 now?

For the noobs out there, this is my list of stuff to buy off McMaster Carr. (my as well get high heat thread locker too)
Im buying stuff with future plans to add auto level and dual extruder. Lots can be bought at a local nut/bolt store but not all.


Thanks for your reply :slight_smile: You’re right, a fixed/floating ballscrew is a bit overkill… Or rather, a ballscrew at all is a bit overkill! But I need to order a ballscrew for my lathe so the two extras for the TAZ only add about the same cost as one misumi leadscrew/acme nut!

I’ve also ordered a bunch of lm10uu bearings and will eventually replace the soft stainless rods with hardened steel ones. I got a really great deal on the TAZ3 so I figure it’s worth spending a bit more money and attempting to improve a few things. I’m a bit spoiled by the Mini Kossel I had until a few days ago, the print quality on that little thing was just incredible, right out of the “box” (well… after a week or two of putting it together, that is). I’m sure the TAZ is capable of great prints, but in the few experiments I’ve done so far, I’ve felt a bit disappointed. I’m sure a lot of it comes down to ABS vs PLA as well, or maybe I was just incredibly lucky hitting the perfect settings on the mini kossel right away.

Theres something fun about upgrading the machine. I feel like I’m investing in a turbo except I make the turbines.
Ive had a bumpy road as well but all in all the machine is already pretty cheap for everything you get. Great bang for you buck and pretty resilient. Ive learned a lot and have lots to learn.

Hi Guys,
Since i have a TAZ 2, the z-nut mount does not fit on my X-motor mount or X-Idler assembly. I will need to print the taz 4 motor mount and idler mount as well as get a 2 x end plate made up.

x-motor mount:http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/4.0/production_parts/printed_parts/TAZ_printers/x_motor_mount/
x idler mount:http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/4.0/production_parts/printed_parts/TAZ_printers/x_ilder/
You must also get a machinist to make two x-end plates:http://download.lulzbot.com/TAZ/4.0/production_parts/drawings/x_end_plate.PDF

Is there anything I will have to change (or know) in my firmware regarding my evolution from taz 2 to 4?


Yup, just started printing some of these in preparation for converting my Taz 3 to ballscrews… There are definitely quite a few more differences than it appeared initially :slight_smile: like 2con said, the X motor mount and idlers need to be printed as well. I wonder if the X end plates could be printed too, but I’m sure there’s a reason they made them out of aluminum, so I’ll machine them as well. Gives me something to do in the many, many hours of printing ahead of me hehe…

So far, I think the only thing you might have to change is the Z steps per mm… I believe the leadscrew has a larger pitch than the 6mm threaded rod! You might also be able to speed the Z axis a bit, but that’s more of an optional thing :slight_smile:

Yea so all i need to do is modify the one setting in my current taz 2 firmware (z_axis_steps per minute) to the taz 4 number. Thats it!

From my understanding, eventually when i upgrade the heat bed to 24v, I will have to change more stuff.
I’m curious to know where you are placing these ballscrews!

I ordered the ballscrews from China from the same guy that made the ballscrews on my mill. They’re relatively affordable and custom made to your dimensions. I paid just under $150 for 3 ballscrews and nuts (one for my lathe) and that included $38 for FedEx shipping - I got the custom made screws here about a week after ordering. I’ve now ordered 9 or 10 ballscrews from them, on 4 different orders and always got great service and parts made exactly the way I asked.

I asked for mine to match the Misumi leadscrews, so they’re the same length, with the same shoulders machined for 608zz bearings, etc. They fit just the same as the Misumi leadscrews on the TAZ4. The ballnut is slightly different and larger than the ACME nut, but shouldn’t be a big deal to mount anyway!

Could someone from Lulzbot comment on the X end plates? Do they have to be machined?