TAZ 5 with Mini upgrades?

Hello All,

I have a TAZ 5 coming, soon I hope!
Any reason I couldn’t print the Mini type corners, make 4 thick metal washers and print the wiper and tweak the firmware to bed level and wipe the tip like the mini?

Also what are the typical first few upgrades to the TAZ that most people go through?

Technically if you wanted to you could. I would just be warned that the bigger sized bed in the TAZ 5 might have more warp towards the middle of the bed so although it may know where your corners are, the middle might be off-level from the auto-level. Sorry it’s hard to word but I hope you understand what I am saying. If you want you can attach a probe which can be used to probe the bed in multiple spots, this way the printer knows the height throughout the bed. I recently added this to my TAZ 4 and I am still calibrating it but it has been great. Find a post about it here: https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/show-off-your-printer-and-printing-station/48/1

nbmoretto,

Thanks, that looks really cool!

I hear what you’re saying; I was thinking something like an X with the corner hold-downs and a puck in the middle, assuming the bed is cupped down. Does that make sense?

Anyway, all that to say I think you have a better solution with the probe. I’ll give that another read.

During my work with the Taz, I have seen no indication of the bed being warped or bowed. That glass is flat.

If you mount a dial indicator to the tool head, you will measure what appears to be a hump in the center of the bed as the x carriage traverses the bed. What is actually happening is the x rods flex under the weight of the extruder as it moves to the center. If you mount the indicator to the x carriage without the tool head, you will find that the “hump” is all but gone.

The bed of my Taz5 is lower in the middle than the corners. The corners barely allow a business to slide between bed and nozzle… The middle is noticeably easier to pass the same business card. I just got a dial gauge to better document this.

An autoprobe only determines the plane of the bed. Then the firmware assumes the bed is flat. Therefore this type of warping / sag won’t be resolved with the autoprobe and three point sampling. Adding a few more sample points near the center of the bed may help “average” out the plane to compensate for the sag in the middle of the bed, but the bottom of a very large part would be slightly uneven. A raft could help, but my large prints often warp with a raft.

I’ve read that PEI has a natural curve when warmed depending on the thickness of the material. The TAZ5 PEI looks pretty thin, but as does the underlying glass… So this shouldn’t be a factor. I’ve gotten to a point where the ABS adhesion is good in the middle of the bed. I suppose, it could be a positive concept to vary the adhesion… Center less adhesion and outer edges better adhesion. I’m sure that wasn’t the intent, though. :slight_smile:

Interesting. If you measure a sag in the middle of the bed, you should really question what’s going on. I am interested to see what you measure with the indicator. What do you see if you leave x in the center of its travel and move y towards its min and max?

Keep us posted!!

This is what I was thinking.

Please keep in mind I’m only guessing because my TAZ 5 has yet to arrive.
Also you’ll have to assume the cup is down as in kcchen00’s description.

The Mini bed corners do not fit on the Taz bed. You would have to make a custom bed mount like this.
https://forum.lulzbot.com/t/update-video-of-taz-auto-bed-leveling-mod-based-on-taz-mini/1063/1

Just wanted to follow-up… took me a while to find the thread.

After re-leveling the bed with a dial gauge (highly recommended, BTW). I’m convinced that my bed is flat. :slight_smile:

Moving the dial guage through the middle of the PEI bed shows a tolerance of +/- .003.