I bought an M175v2 a few months ago and got a few good prints with it. One day it stopped printing after I had printed a few servo brackets.
I connect to the printer using Cura LE 3.6.37, I load a model, place it on the build plate, slice the model, then click print.
The printer sets the hotend to the probing temp and the bed to the printing temp.
The print head moves into position over the home position and waits.
I have waited over 30 minutes for it to start printing, but it never does.
The build plate temp reaches the target temp (65C in my case) and holds steady.
The hotend temp fluctuates between 177 and 162, usually staying between 164 and 175. I think this might be my problem, but I don’t know how to tell or what to do about it.
What should I do?
Does it heat properly when you manually set the temp to 210?
I’d start with inspecting all the wiring on the M175v2 for obvious loose wiring on the heater and temp sensor.
After that, throw the old toolhead on and check that it heats properly. If the old operates normally, new heater cartridges are not expensive - 50W 3D Printer Heater Cartridge (24V/12V Variations) – Slice Engineering and thermistors aren’t that bad either - Thermistor: High Temperature – Slice Engineering.
The wiring looks good.
I reconnected my SL 0.25 and it heated up just fine. I resliced my previous model and it’s printing now, but it’s going to take 4x as long.
I wonder if the TAZ 6 is just overreacting each time the M175’s sensor says it’s too hot or too cold? It keeps overshooting the target temp, then overshooting in the opposite direction.
If it is overreacting, is there a way to tell it to stop?
I’ve barely gotten to print anything with the M175.
Have you updated the firmware to the universal firmware? If so, you need to select the toolhead from the Taz 6’s menu. If you’re not on the new firmware, update it with Cura LE. After you do that, select the M175v2 and then go into the configuration on your printer and do a PID auto-tune, which helps it to learn the heating properties of your hot end.
Just selecting the toolhead in Cura won’t tell the Taz to swap toolheads in the universal firmware, and if you’re still on the SL, it’s going to get confused.
Yes, I have the universal firmware. I have the M175v2 selected. I did not do a PID auto-tune. I did not know that was a thing. Thank you for pointing that out!
I will look for that in the settings.
That switch to having to select the toolhead on my printer really surprised me a couple months ago when I found it. Esteps were all wonky and I had a calibration cube that looked gross. Now that I know it’s a feature, I love it.
My M175v2 had the same issue which was fixed by doing a PID auto-tune. I thought that the most recent Universal Firmware changed the default PID for the M175v2 to eliminate this issue but I could be wrong.
In any case, I have done a PID auto-tune on all of my tool heads and placed the results into the start gcode in each tool head profile in CuraLE (i.e. I have created a separate printer profile for each of my tool heads).
PID auto-tune seems to have done the trick. Thank you!
I was able to print another servo bracket no sweat.
Super cool, because the 1.75mm filament I ordered before this happened has arrived, and this is my only 1.75mm toolhead.
Time to print some fun Halloween stuff that glows in the dark.
While the bridgemaster that comes with the M175v2 is coated against wear, the Vanadium nozzle is a better choice if you’re going to do a bunch of glowing stuff.
I just loaded a Slice Vanadium nozzle on my Aerostruder in anticipation of some glowing ABS prints.