I recently started a print job on Octoprint and encountered a heating failed which resulted in an abortion.
I thought that since my machine is +5yr old it probably just took too long to heat up from 215c to 225c and resulted in an error with Octoprint.
I took the failed print off the bed and heated up the extruder to 210c (no problem).
I restarted the print with the SD card on the machine.
It almost seems as if the machine was printing at the wrong temperature because the material looks glossier on the bottom (normal) to a matte finish and over-extrusion further into the print. In addition, the over-extrusion caused the nozzle to vibrate over the existing material like rumble strips. I tried to lower the temperature starting with 218c in 30 second intervals, then 216c, 208c (extruder has trouble pushing filament out 208c), and then to 220c.
I tried once more to print the object because it seemed like the material was too hot on the 2nd try. Things got worse. I couldn’t quite get the print to stick to the bed anymore with the first layer unless the nozzle was very close to the bed.
I’m wondering if the thermistor is acting up or if the heater is the problem. I might need to replace one or the other. But the question is which one?
I have a multimeter but don’t know much about how to use it because its only use is for the printer. Can you test the wires to tell if the heater or thermistor is not working? If so how do you do that?
After viewing the results of this experiment, we may want to consider a PID tune. In the first topic above, I linked an article and in the second topic above, there is a link to a video.
I would guess that the apparent “over-extrusion” later on is from the part warping upward.
The pattern here reminds me of a partially-clogged or worn nozzle, or trying to extrude a line thinner than your actual nozzle size (either wrong nozzle in the slicer, or a nozzle worn to have a bigger opening):
Without some additional information about your OctoPrint setup, I’m going to guess that you have the BetterHeaterTimeout plugin installed and that is where that message came from.
I changed the toolhead this week because I needed to print. It printed fine but still seemed inconsistent with the temperature.
Then today when I printed again I got the same error message!
Heating failed, system stopped! Heater_ID: E0 - echo:busy: processing
It seems like this issue isn’t related to the toolhead since I changed it. So it’s either a bad wire somewhere or something wrong with the motherboard (in the past I had a loose fan connection).
@Wrathernaut, I don’t know if I have MPC but I will give (M306 T, M500) it a try.
My bad assumption… Your firmware has M86 and that is where the Recv: Hotend Idle Timeout comes from.
Gcode documentation can be found at https://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/ or https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code. The description for the M86 explains what actions reset the timer and also how to disable it (M86 S0 or M87). The Model predictive control, M306 description might also be worth a read (note: the RepRap documentation is for a Smoothie command, not the Marlin one).
It might be useful to post the output (please use the </> tool or triple tick marks) of the M115 command.
So MPC went from:
M306 E0 P50.00 C15.44 R0.1128 A0.0622 F0.1844 H0.0056
to
M306 E0 P50.00 C14.57 R0.1370 A0.0582 F0.1825 H0.0056
The math on the documentation is a bit above my level, so I don’t know how significant the changes are, but if it’s working now, great!
Going by the documentation, the H value (heat capacity of the filament) needs to be updated if you’re not running a 1.75mm toolhead. H0.0056 corresponds to 1.75mm PLA.
Do you know how to access the settings on the printer and edit (Configuration.h)?
I’m a little confused because there is a “configuration” option in the main menu but I couldn’t find a way to access the (Configuration.h)?
Is there a guide on how to change (FILAMENT_HEAT_CAPACITY_PERMM)?
Editing configuration.h is for doing a custom compiled marlin firmware build. If it’s saved to your EEPROM, that’s about as good as you’ll need. Just remember to do the MPC tuning after a firmware update.
