When I checked my Mini with a IR I got the edges at 10 DegC colder than the middle. I was told that was normal?
Is this the reason my bed seems to have small cracks or divets in it? There’s a very visible crack on the top right corner, it looks like it may be the pei layer peeling off, but I’m not sure. It looks like a pressure crack from the corner foot. It’s in a corner that rarely gets to meet the hotend, so I was thinking it might be because of heat expansion. It looks like I’ll probably need a new piece of glass in the near future. I bought my Taz in February and have used it a good bit (not as much as I’d like to, but enough).
Actually, a 10degC delta from center to edge of a heated build platform is very, very good.
Prusa Mendel and older SeeMeCNC machines often exhibit a >30degC delta from center to edge, and another ~20degC from the heater/thermistor to the top glass surface.
Hi Guys
I do see some discolouration & also warping of initial layers at 110C, but by far my biggest problem is that the PEI layer is detaching from the bed surface in what look like big air bubbles, & get significantly worse the higher the temp gets. I am going to try dropping to 85C now & hope this resolves it, but looks like I need a new bed 
Post your results. For ABS, I start my initial layers at 110C, then drop the bed to 100C… 5 layers then drop to 100 to be exact. Its 110C until 15 layers, then I’ll drop it further to 90C.
At 110C, the ABS sticks to the PEI really well. I read somewhere that 3mm ABS can soften at 85C… which is why I don’t leave the bed at 110C, along with scorching possibility. At 15 layers (.2=3mm, .3=4.5mm), I figure the foundation of the project is thick enough not to warp from contraction of upper layers.
Cooling from the fan may contribute to warping also. My strategy is 0% for the first 3mm then 50-60%.
Wouldn’t a 3mm height composed of .2mm thick layers add up to 15mm, not 150? Seems like a decimal point got slipped somewhere. I’m wondering because I have not yet printed with ABS, but will be doing so soon. Should I be looking at a tweak at z=3mm or z=30mm?
Yep. You’re right 15 layers at .2 layer height would equal 3mm… Going back to fix my post. 
I printed using nylon with the recommended bed temp of 110. The bed turned into a woopee cushion with huge bubbles under the PEI (covering over 50% of the surface). I lowered the temp to 90 and things are ok (although I had to slice the PEI to remove the bubbles). The recommendation needs to be changed.
I have a Taz 6 coming my way and noticed while looking at the new profiles page that is still says 110. Is it 110 or 85 for the six?
Hey everyone, this post is an older one, when we used PET Tape on the surface. We have found that with the PEI covering 110 is required for many a filaments. You can see the full temperature table in your full user manual:
Will 110C shorten the life of the silicone heater by much vs 85C? Is it the same silicone heater in the TAZ 4, 5 and 6?
The 3, 4, 5, and 6 all use the same heater. The 85c warning was when we used a 12v silicone heater on the 1 and 2 as opposed to our current 24v silicone heater pad. We have been rocking 110c on our printers in our cluster room since we came out with the 4, and have not had any failures. You should be just fine with 110c, without shortening the life of your pad.
The PEI and PET tape kind of made timing a little rough (it has been a bit since this post was made.) Moral of the story, we have not seen any bed failures in our cluster room rocking at 110c 24 hours a day, 5 days a week.
As more and more people buy the TAZ 6, having this sitting on top of the TAZ section will be confusing. The thread should probably be “un-sticked”.
Maybe a new thread with a current matrix of recommended filament type bed temps with respect to the TAZ models (PET/PEI). This thread could then be linked for history and generally good information.
Gah, sorry all. Thought we had un-stickied. Corrected!