The TAZ only needs 85C for the heatbed, not 110C. We are updating the next print of the manual, and have included an errata. FYI.
Is this for ABS?
Yes, set the bed to 85C for ABS.
Will the firmware be updated too?
I can’t find the TAZ firmware on your site, but in the TK-0 firmware Configuration.h file it calls out:
“#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 100”
I think this is only the default that is pulled up in printrun, but it should probably be changed too.
TAZ firmware is here:
The line you mentioned around line 341 is only used when using an optional LCD controller kit.
I’m curious - why the change? I actually have problems with curling and adhesion at 85; at 100-110, they are reduced.
Well mainly it because the 110C setting was used for the AO-101’s and the TAZ, having a different bed has a different setting of 85C. (It should have always been 85C for the TAZ in the manual, but we did not see the error until after they manuals were printed…sigh)That the simple answer, in reality the temperature on the top surface of the PET that is on the glass should be similar between the AO-101 and the TAZ even thought they are “set” differently. This is due to mainly different temperature sensor locations and the different materials that make up each bed have different thermal properties.
The reason we don’t suggest going higher than 85C, even if it can help sometimes with warping and pealing, is that it can discolor ABS if it is too warm. This is really noticeable with natural ABS as it will start to turn brown if it sits for to long on an bed that is too warm.
Very interesting. Thank you for your reply. I have not seen any discoloration yet. I definitely don’t want to use any more heat than needed - I’ll keep trying to print with less as much as I can.
I am curious - if I measure the surface temperature of the bed on the Taz with i.e. an IR thermometer, while it’s set to a reference temperature like 85C or 110C, is there a number you would expect the actual surface temperature to be?
I have noticed the discoloration of the natural ABS, but only on very long prints (10-12 hours+) at 110 C.
At 85C, I have a lot of problems getting the parts to adhere to the surface, even with ABS / Acetone glue.
Now I have a different problem with running at the higher temps: The bed isn’t able to get above ~95C now. I wonder if this is because I have been over taxing the system running at the higher temps?
BCEngineering: Are you able to still run it at 85-90 without problems?
I am not - even with the ABS glue, I get poor adhesion. The room that my printer is in sits at about 50F though, so that’s probably why.
50F is far too cold of an ABS 3D printing range without being in an enclosure. Printing in an area that cold will lead to part splitting due to shrinkage not to mention overworking the printer unnecessarily. Ideally, the printer should be operating in a normal room temp range. If you’re comfortable it will be too. When printing with ABS you’ll find you’ll have better results in a warm room or within an enclosure of some kind.
I have no problem at 85 c if I use the “ABS glue”, I have found it more easy to apply when the bed is hot.
This will leave more abs on the bed and make the print stick perfectly.
I definitely had better success with 100C. I was using blue ABS from IC3D and I did not get any discoloration.
I also can’t print with the bed at 85°C. I’ve been using 100 and 110.
Even at 90°C I’ve had problems. And the print wasn’t that big. Maybe 100x100.
I’ll be sticking to 110°C unless I start getting discoloration, but I rarely print in white. I don’t even own any in 3mm yet.
If you want to use 85°C bed temps you definitely need an enclosure. (which you really need anyway for consistent success with ABS).
The stratosys patent is absurd I can’t understand why nobody can break that. How do you patent a box? It’s ridiculous. Some lawyer worth 10cents should be able to crush that in court. Why hasn’t it happened yet?
I guess for the TAZ 5 it is still recommended using 110C right?
I use 105C for the first layer then drop to 90C after the 10th layer… 100C for the first layer seems to work okay also. Printing in eSUN White ABS lately, and no discoloration on ~3hr prints.
The thing I’ve found interesting is that objects delaminate when they are printed on the left middle of the printing surface. We took pictures with a thermal imager of the surface and there is a cool spot. If someone can tell me how to get the image to appear in a post or if I can email it to the company I will, there’s a consumer’s responsibility here.