I just fitted the Modular bed and made new stand offs now im using the bed I also have a sag approx. 1mm at 60deg I have this fitted to the Taz 6 I was going to make new printed corners taking the 1mm off instead of the 11mm stand offs, is there another way to stop it sagging.
I finally got tired of the uneven heat. (bed set to 110, reads with heatgun 75) and used a sheet of the 3M adhesive and stuck the steel to the glass. Now it gets to 110. Debating what to do with the second modular system I have on another machine.
What I have used on my Ender 3 printer was a thin silicone thermal pad on top of the aluminum heat bed and then placed the glass on top of it. It works great and has very good heat transfer…cheap too!
I want to try and level the bed on my Taz 6 but haven’t decided what to do. I now have a bl-touch on mine and the bed is very tilted(high on the right side). I guess the first thing would be to print some new bed mounts from nylon and raise the left side up to compensate???
In case anyone is wondering, this is still an issue. I just received the new etched modular print bed heater today, and these photos are during printing. To be fair, I’m printing the new bed corners, so I guess there’s an arugment that it might get better once I install it with those, but I’ve also got the bed set to 120 in the hopes of projecting a little more heat up to the glass.
I’ll probably try flexing the steel back the other way a bit to see if I can flatten it out, and maybe put something under it to help hold it up, but it sounds like some 3M adhesive might be the way to go.
Let us know if the new corners work for you, and get in touch with our support team if not: https://LulzBot.com/Support.
The corners didn’t do much to fix the issue. The heater was just sagging way too much. I’ve just propped it up in the middle, so it’s working, but this definitely seems like an issue that should be addressed in the design. Or ship the part with a spring to put under the middle.
Reach out to the support team at https://LulzBot.com/Support with a link to this thread, we have a standoff that’ll help.
they should read this thread and give details of the stand off< I did contact them and they seemed to be vague about this issue> LULZBOT if you reading this you don’t credit yourself with such a product that clearly has a design issue…
We’ve added a link to the center standoff for TAZ 5 users to the product page. Here’s a link to the model: t5_flexy_standoff_8mm.stl.
If you have a TAZ 5, and the heater portion is sagging, print this in Ninjaflex, using the high-speed setting with the infill percentage set to 60%. Place it in the center of the aluminum bed plate, and place the print bed assembly on top.
If for some reason you’re unable to print with NinjaFlex, reach out to the support team at https://LulzBot.com/Support.
I’ll add my observations here.
I have modified my modular bed with a 3mm(0.10") thick aluminum plate that has the heat mat glued to it.
This Aluminum plate is several times thicker than the one that came with the modular bed and it has sagged also. Its just the physics of the mounting system, having the plate supported on the corners will cause it to sag. I fixed mine with a $2 solution.
Danco Rubber Faucet Seat Kit for Delta, Peerless Item # 28765 Model # 80684
This faucet rebuild kit has two small beehive shaped springs that do the trick. And ti comes with two rubber seals that you could use as thermal/electrical insulators.
Yeah… I haven’t revisited this issue other than the small binder clips which seem to help trap the air on the edges. It works, so its holding up.
its unfortunate to hear that even a 3mm thick aluminum plate sags from the weight. That doesn’t bode well for a standalone 5mm PEI sheet… which was my end goal.
Supporting the center is probably the best idea. I wish it wasn’t static, meaning no height adjust (I have a TAZ5). Maybe I’ll make a mold to produce 8mm silicone blocks or cylinders. The silicone will give a little as I adjust the bed corners. I guess its another addition to the next print bed overhaul.