Modular Bed fitting to TAZ 6

Hope someone can help me hear, I went to fit the Modular Bed to my TAZ 6, thought this would be a strait swap, when I tighten the 16mm washers down they don’t lay flat?? because the heater plate sits in the print corners im 1 mm higher, when I look at my Stand off they measure 10mm, when I loof at

they quote 11mm any thoughts on this?? I did contact Tech but they seem to not understand my problem…

Any Help appreciated…

Checking my Taz 6 it measures 10 MM to the top of the modular bed glass plate. I had a problem at first with the washers not sitting flat, but on second attempt they worked fine.


Thanks for the reply I will have another go I re measured everything and the plates are the same thickness the difference is in the heater plate this adds another 1mm to the height of the plate as this sits into the corners of the printed bed supports…

Ill try and re fit if not ill make 11mm pillars


That’s interesting… maybe they “fixed” the system with a thicker steel plate…

Don’t get to excited I think the steel sheet is the same 1.0mm the plate is the same as the std plate (thickness)

Does your look like this?

I had the same issue. Here’s a video that I made.

I sent the video to Aleph Objects and here was the reply:

“The small slant you are seeing in the washers is within an acceptable range compared to what we see on the modular beds that we use in the office. The printer is able to compensate for that with the auto leveling. The distance is not usually too great that it affects the z-offset, but there is a possibility.”

They also offered for me to return the unit. It surprised me that this was within the acceptable range compared to what they use in the office.

Make sure the edges of the heating pad is not catching on the flex corners, the picture I looked, at the metal plate is sitting about 1MM higher than it should be in the corner pocket. You may need to loosen the two screws on them and adjust the corners out slightly to get the metal plate to sit better between.


You are Absolutely spot on, Yes that is exactly my issue, if Lulzbot are looking at this post they should sort this, They do themselves NO credit, supplying this, I moved from a Printer with dodgy heritage (Chinese) in the parts department, I purchased the Taz because I thought with it being American it would be done right, Grossly disappointed.

I have a Lathe I will make 11mm stand offs (Cylindrical Spacers) I would like to know why they list this in the file suppository (11mm) stand offs.

Thank you for taking the time in uploading the video I thought I was being stupid, but the maths don’t lie, Thanks

And as this is so crucial to get a good level bed level Wonky Washers DONT Cut the mustard :blush:

Fix it Lulzbot

I was going to PM you but was getting confused I can make them this week would you like a set

Yes please! I’ll pm you my contact info.

Its the exact same issue with the Mini Gladiola versions. The parts add up too tall and the washers are all angled. Support is complete crap for the issue, it annoyed me so much I just put it back in box and dont even use it. But my experience with the taz modular bed isnt much better for my taz 5, abs adhesion is complete crap.


I made some Stand offs please have a look at the pictures but my finding are thought provoking, making the spacers did work but I think a better way would be to remake the printed parts allowing for the 1 mm reduction, the spacers I made all were within 0.10 but some of the 16mm washers did not tighten down and I could slide a bit of paper beneath the surface of the bed and the underside of the washer, I packed under the bed and the printed stand off, I think the printed parts could be made to suit the plate and keeping the 10mm stand offs, which I think in the long run would be better, in case there are any other mods that Lulzbot might introduce or even any of the heads you might want to fit. I printed a test piece out the plate performed well… I am going to redraw the pieces in coming week, if you have no cad facilities I can send you the STL… I think it was printed in nGen Flex I could be wrong… let me know your thoughts


2 hrs into a 4hr print and there’s a sag in the heater plate approx. 1mm gap in the centre, and yes before anyone asks I made sure the plate was sitting well in the raised blocks.

I made the Stoff 11mm but I have modified the corners with an extra 1mm off the ledge that holds the plate and heater plate if anyone wants to try them
Bed Corners std 1mm reduced.STL (37.5 KB)

I made a set like that last week with TPU @0.15mm layers and replaced the OEM corners. Installing the modular bed went a lot easier, the washers laid level first try, without having to fuss with loosening and tightening the corners to get it all to set correctly. Bonus was not having the sensation that the glass was going to break as I tightened the screws.

have any of you guys attached a dial indicator to the print carriage and ran it across the table front after you fixed your washer issue i just got my printer and discoverd the same issues got my z right on all my washers after my fix ran the indicator across the front left to right right was off a good 1/2 mm… took off all the pads, washers… made 4 gauge blocks one for each corner set the glass on the blocks ran my indicator … right front was a good mm off…’chasing the dog’ now… going to get some apx11” rails(4) to use as gauge blocks to set the table on that way there should be no table sag then run my dial indicator test if the glass top is still off it’s in the frame probably where the metal table bolts on to the rails but i’m not going to shim under there … if my long gauge blocks work i’ll shim under them… now to get or make the long gauge blocks…

You can just edit the line with g29 in start script. Make it G29 V4; then watch the output in terminal. It will show you the height it measures for each corner