Hello! I am having some troubles with getting the Z-offset correct on my Taz6 and would like to be able to adjust it while it isn’t printing. However I am not sure how to get the printer to move to it’s ‘starting point’ for a print, IE how close it will be when initiating the first layer of a print.
Is there a way to do this so that I can tune it without restarting multiple times, or during a print?
Their are gcode commands for such its used as far back as 2015-present
But you should check gcode commands on rep rep wiki or if someone comments it but I do remember m500 is save correct me if I’m wrong
How close it will be depends on your layer height. After doing a bed level, if you go to the Z height of your layer height, that’s where it’ll start extruding.
That said, most Z offset issues are due to contamination of the nozzle by plastic. Any trace of plastic can insulate the nozzle’s electrical connection with the washers at the corners, and cause the bed to be sensed as lower than it should be, causing the nozzle to be closer to, or actually touching the bed, instead of at the proper offset.
I will look into these, thank you.
It’s only the first layers that are really having an issue. The rest of the print seems fine. It seems like the first layers are not ‘squishing’ enough resulting in poor adhesion and peeling at the corners.
That’s how it works with bad offset. Either it fails completely because of the bad first layer, or it gets past the error and print continues.
If you’re getting too much squish and running the standard PEI-covered glass plate, and your Z offset is -.32mm to -.25mm -1.32mm to -1.25mm, then it’s almost certainly an issue with the cleanliness of your nozzle. If you’re running the octograb magnetic plate, it’s a bit more variable, but usually somewhere around +0.3mm
Would extruder wear cause this? Looking closely it seems like the tip of the E1 extruder is maybe flatter than the E2 extruder. I have the Zoffset set to like -1.3 mm right now
Sorry, yes, it’s -1.32 to -1.25 for a proper offset. My mistake.
The way the nozzle is used to measure offset compensates for nozzle wear, but if you’re using a dual extruder toolhead, you will have to adjust E2 to match the height of E1.
If your nozzle is wearing down enough that the tip opening is no longer the right diameter, that will affect the first layer, due to line width no longer being consistent.
I’m not using E2 so I’ve got it much higher than E1. Thank you, noted about nozzle wear. For now it is printing with a slightly higher bed temperature, lots of extra strength hairspray, and with print cooling disabled.
Question is that a e3D , slice engineering , bondtech or slice worx