So I have read about a few issues with the Mini, namely the auto leveling not working as expected if nozzle is not clean. I have not see any update or differing information than what is posted already.
I will be opening my mini tonight and as I get started with it, I figure I would check and leave nothing to chance.
Also, not related, but will there be a quick print feature added for NinjaFlex for Cura?
Thanks…
M.
I’m new to this stuff…I’ve only put half a roll of ABS through mine…
But from my observations…
Given the way the auto-leveling works, I would think that it’s imperative to have the nozzle clean… And why every print starts with a wipe on the cleaning pad.
If I’ve learned anything in regards to that, is that I find that it’s probably common maintenance to 1)pick any ooze away as the head heats up, and 2) the cleaning pad actually needs cleaning.
#2 seems to be important, as I’ve seen a couple of clumps build up on the pad and took a pretty good effort to remove.
It wasn’t plastic either, it was probably a combo of wear of the pad, and possibly melted fibers of the pad from a hot nozzle…
Everything you said makes perfect sense and I will note that. I have read that having little alcohol wipes handy is a God idea, (although, like you, I plan to use this printer for ABS/HIPS material mostly) so I cannot see why alcohol would work.
But at any rate, I will be unboxing the little fella tomorrow, (I have had since Saturday…go figure), I will certainly keep your suggestions handy…
M.
You have much more patience than me, I couldn’t stare at the box for that long 
I used alcohol wipes on the bed every couple of prints, and used shop blue paper towels in between prints…
I have yet to have any warping or bonding issue on the bed with HIPS or ABS.
I only used the alcohol wipes to cut any grease that could come from my fingers, plus I’ve had the printer exposed to weather(humidity(raining all week),and slight wind)…
On another note, the PEI bed is the stuff!!! At least from my experiences with a perforated heated bed… Models just seem to pop right off cleanly. With that said, the oyster shucker knife they supply, can cause more wear IMO… So I’ve been using a semi dull 2" paint scraper that works wonders popping the models off…
DawgBone,
Thank you for your response… It is not patience, it is LIFE, (with kids)… But the wait is nearly over. Thanks for the insight to the alcohol wipes… Again, all makes sense, hopefully it will help others too.
I got say, even the box looks nice!
M.
Hi,
I am here from Sydney and searching for a PEI bed, I need its complete information, I reached here through yahoo search and I need the get a print a large size image of my kids photos. Actually I have just go through with designing and trying to make a design of kids new bedroom!
Nozzle pre-cleaning (while it’s heating, before it wipes) doesn’t hurt. Never us anything conductive like a wire blush, as that can harm the controller board. We suggest scotch-brite, or similar scouring pads. The green ones don’t melt with moderate nozzle contact.
Ninjaflex profiles appear when you “add machine” in Cura, and select the Mini with Flexysrtuder V2 toolhead. The Flexystruder V2 is required for flexible filament like Ninijaflex and Semiflex. You should not print rigid filaments in the Flexystruder.
This isn’t really mentioned in your post but regarding the nozzle not being clean, I must say something about it so people don’t make the same mistake I did. NEVER use a wire brush to clean the nozzle.
The bed probe/auto-level function is amazing with the now Taz line and Mini line of printers. I believe the newer mini’s are shipping with a different wipe/probe g-code which is a lot faster from the wipe function to the initial probe which may reduce the possibility of plastic oozing out before the first probe.
I have a few hundred hours on my mini currently and I am only on the 2nd side of my first wiper pad. I still have my package of 5 sitting peacefully. I am not trying to be cheap or lazy I just feel the pad is still working very well and I keep my nozzles pretty darn clean. I have also adjusted the start g-code so the nozzle doesn’t push as hard into the wipe pad. For 1 the print head flex’s to much for me to be happy and the ‘X’ access shifting from the wipe function doesn’t make me happy either. It was also important for me to make this change as my new nozzle was about 1-2mm longer.
I hear a lot of talk about not using wire brushes etc when cleaning the nozzles. I am not sure how I feel on this as I have been using my wire brush that I got with my mini the entire time I have owned it. I only use the wire brush when the print head hits 160 degree’s before it probes its first washer. I use the wire brush to wipe horizontally across the bottom of the tip. Closest to the print bed part of the nozzle.
Before the nozzle heads for the wipe pad, I will remove any filament strings etc with a pair of tweezers. After the wipe, the nozzle moves to the 1st corner and starts its cool down. Just before it reaches 160 degree’s, if there is any filament oozing out of the nozzle tip I will grab and remove it with tweezers, I then grab my wire brush and wipe the tip as stated above when the temp is at about 160. I feel comfortable that at 160 after I wipe the nozzle I wont get any more ooze. However, I ALWAYS watch.
That is what I do anyways. My biggest tip is always watch the auto level feature. Don’t ever assume it will work good and always get ready to shut off the motors on the 1st bed corner probe. Re-starting your print is better than cracking your bed 
You will get into a good routine with the wipe and probe sequences you just need to figure out what you want to do Have fun with your new printer.
If you know what wires on the toolhead to stay clear of careful of so as to not short out the RAMBO, and don’t accidentally short them anyway, a wire brush does the job. Rather than make all those qualifiers, we just suggest a scotchbrite. A scotchbrite also lets you use decent pressure to scrub, and can be contorted around for those hard to access spots
The Mini should be getting a firmware update soon that adds the TAZ 6’s “sanity check” of corner height values. If the TAZ 6 fails the check, it stops, re-wipes in a different pattern, then touches the corners again. I think it’s also supposed to stop the print if it fails a second time.
Our TAZ 6 did it’s first probe fail/ rewipe/ re-calibrate cycle yesterday, so It was a bit of a surprise to see.
Cheers, thanks! I was assuming the mechanical z-axis switch was part of the ‘sanity check’ process? Am I incorrect in this and its just strictly a firmware update?
The added switch isn’t required, just a firmware update! The mechanical switch on the TAZ 6 allows it to Z home at Z minimum, with a known offset from the switch to bed surface to determine a “safe” range. The Mini homes at max Z, and the “safe” range is set around the known height from Z max to the bed
The added switch isn’t required, just a firmware update! The mechanical switch on the TAZ 6 allows it to Z home at Z minimum, with a known offset from the switch to bed surface to determine a “safe” range. The Mini homes at max Z, and the “safe” range is set around the known height from Z max to the bed.
The TAZ 6 could home at max Z, as it has a limit switch, but it would be a time waster to have to max Z before every print. LulzBot nicely added the switch to avoid the delay, which isn’t as big of a deal on the Mini.
The added switch isn’t required, just a firmware update! The mechanical switch on the TAZ 6 allows it to Z home at Z minimum, with a known offset from the switch to bed surface to determine a “safe” range. The Mini homes at max Z, and the “safe” range is set around the known height from Z max to the bed.
The TAZ 6 could home at max Z, as LulzBot added a limit switch, but it would be a time waster to have to max Z before every print. LulzBot nicely added the switch to avoid the delay, which isn’t as big of a deal on the Mini.[/quote][/quote]The added switch isn’t required, just a firmware update! The mechanical switch on the TAZ 6 allows it to Z home at Z minimum, with a known offset from the switch to bed surface to determine a “safe” range. The Mini homes at max Z, and the “safe” range is set around the known height from Z max to the bed.
The TAZ 6 could home at max Z, as LulzBot added a limit switch, but it would be a time waster to have to max Z before every print. LulzBot nicely added the switch to avoid the delay, which isn’t as big of a deal on the Mini.
Ahh got cha. Thanks. That will be helpful for the mini once implemented.
Through my fiddling i found out that the lower mechanical z-axis switch was supposed to be a ‘sanity check’ in the original mini design to prevent catastrophic failure, but currently does not function at all. This is a lulzbot firmware programming issue, so it will be nice to see it fixed (haven’t heard if there are any plans to do so) and any other nifty bed leveling failure code from the new Taz 6’s ported over to the mini.
My Taz 6 seems permanently stuck in the probe fail/rewipe/recalibrate cycle. It was failing on the back right sensor, and most recently on the front right sensor. It fails, rewipes, restarts and finally aborts with the “fail, clean nozzle” message. How did you fix your issue, please? Was it just a matter of cleaning the nozzle? You said something about a firmware update?
Contact LulzBot support 970-377-1111 or support@lulzbot.com
There are relevant 2 service bulletins out for the TAZ 6 on the service bulletin page https://www.lulzbot.com/content/service-bulletins
https://www.lulzbot.com/sites/default/files/TAZ-6_Square_Frame_service_bulletin.pdf
https://www.lulzbot.com/sites/default/files/TAZ-6_Y-axis_chassis_mount_service_bulletin.pdf
I’ve seen one of those (frame) and was affected by it but hadn’t seen the second one yet. I’ve got several calls and a 47+ email thread going with tech support and the various issues I’ve had with this Taz 6 so far (and my serial number is included in both batches for those service bulletins, which may explain why I’m having so much trouble).
Thanks for the links.