Water tight containter with T-Glase? Is it possible?

I’ve been trying all sorts of settings including the settings file on the lulzbot download page, with no success.

I am using the latest Cura (built from LulzBot git) since there is no package for Fedora (that I could find).

It seems like the leaks are occurring everywhere the printer changes direction when printing the shell. I’ve tried everything from lower heat (212C, 220C, 230C) various shell thicknesses (2, 3, 4mm) and layer thicknesses (0.5, and 1mm) and all seem to have the same issue, plus varying degrees of droop in different places in the model where it is like the thread did not bind to the one already layed down.

Here is the source of the STL file I am using: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:208592

Kinda stumped, anyone have ideas?


It is quite feasible, especially if you are using our settings. At what scale are you printing that object? Post an image of your print so that we can give better recommendations.

Hello Mike,

The first thing I would recommend is increasing your temperature to 240c. (You can even bump it to 260c if you are using a Hexagon Hotend) This should help adhesion, and prevent leaks from between layers.

After looking over the file, the droops you are seeing are most likely due to the overhangs present. (Support will prevent this, but also would require removal from inside the bottle.) You also mention going up to a 1mm layer thickness. This will cause some feed issues, as you will not be able to go above your nozzle diameter for layer height. (For most filaments, we recommend no more than 80% of nozzle diameter for layer height for consistency.)

Have you attempted increasing your fill density?

I have had the best luck printing watertight models using Cura’s expert Black Magic. (Only follow mesh contour) The STL files that work best with these are created as solid objects. (See Here) You can then remove solid infill top, and leave solid infill bottom on for a vase.

I hope this helps!

I printed it at 3:1 and 4:1 with a 5mm shell thickness, with the original settings I downloaded from the site. I was hoping the extra shell would help…

I will take some pics tomorrow.


Would something like a tube be printable with this setting on?

I have been using a larger shell size with 0% infill because supposedly this will get the best optical results? That was my interpretation of what taulman page said anyway.

I was hoping to get both the good optical qualities and water tightness together.

Also, I do have a hexagon hot end! I will try 260C next. Do you sell replacement tips for it? I was thinking about drilling one out like they suggest. BTW, I have the Mini (just got it) and I am loving it!


I found the issue. The filament has bubbles in it… Maybe I got a bad spool? I hope they don’t all have bubbles.


Sorry to resurrect a thread from the dead… but I’m having a similar problem and thought it better to resurrect than to post another one with the same question. I’m trying to print a fairly small part, and I’m getting what appears to be seepage through the layers.

I’m using a Taz 5 with the MakerGeeks PETG filament (though I have legit taulman t-glase as well… same problem for both). Clarity is not important for these parts, but they need to be food-grade.

I’m printing between 235 and 245c, with my bed at 60c. Based on what I’ve read, various things like layer thickness, temperature, retraction, etc may all affect this… so I’ve played with all of it. I’ve also tried setting my nozzle size in cura to .6 (on a .5 nozzle), because I read somewhere that this would make it overextrude just a bit and may help seal the gaps. so far, no joy.

I did notice that I have tiny bubbles as well when I just do manual extrusions, just like the OP said. These are present in both the Makergeeks and the Taulman filaments… I read somewhere that they might be related to temperature (some post said to crank the heat up until you see bubbles, then back off 5c), but they’re still present at 235c, which is a full 10c lower than the recommended printing temp. I’m hesitant to go lower, because I read that higher temp = more watertighness.

I’ve attached my STL if it helps. Cura doesn’t seem to like it much, probably because of the fork, but if I print it with both ends of the ‘y’ on the bed, it seems to handle it a bit better.

I can try to print it as a ‘follow mesh contour’ as brent.I suggested… but I don’t know how to print them without the top layers… and the thing needs to be a tube.

I’m trying to get these printed in the next couple of days for a halloween party… if anyone has any recommendations, I’d greatly appreciate it!
vented connector.stl (317 KB)

Clarity is not important for these parts, but they need to be food-grade.

You might want to think about your nozzle as well as the filament. Brass usually has lead in it. There are some newer brass fittings for plumbing made from brass which doesn’t have lead, but unless you know for certain your nozzle is made with such brass, you might want to go with stainless steel instead. If you are paranoid enough about lead, you’d probably want an entirely new filament path if the previous one had exposure to lead bearing components too.